Enigma – Mea Culpa

Walking through the South Porch brings us directly into the Nave, and as I’ve already explained, it’s very much Norman in character. Norman is the term given to post-conquest Romanesque architecture in Britain and lasted until the end of the 12^th century. Typically, you’ll see that there are massive round pillars, semi circular arches and zig-zag mouldings.

The Cathedral is blessed with some wonderful stained-glass, and although much of it is Victorian, it is still worthy of closer inspection. In the Nave’s South Aisle is a window depicting the coronation of Henry III who was hurriedly crowned here on 28^th October 1216 after succeeding King John. He  was later crowned for a second time at Westminster Abbey.

The death of Edward II, the suspicious manner in which he died, and his subsequent burial here, meant that his tomb became a shrine, and with this extra interest came extra funds to re-build the dark and old-fashioned east end of the Norman church into a more suitable setting.

By this time the architectural style had moved away from the Norman influence to the more flamboyant Perpendicular Gothic style, and this is what we can see in the Quire, Presbytery and adjacent South Transept and Ambulatory.

Edward II wasn’t the only person of note to be buried here, and in the South Ambulatory is the unmissable effigy of Robert Curthose, the eldest son of William the Conqueror who should have become king but never did. Another thing you can’t miss is the enormous 14^th century Great East Window, and in contrast, make sure that you check out Thomas Denny’s modern stained-glass windows in the nearby Thomas Chapel.

Thomas Denny has some more stunning glass panels in the Lady Chapel which is located behind the Great East Window. Building the Chapel began in 1465 and was completed around 1482. The bare stone walls we see today would have been very different in medieval times when the chapel would have been richly decorated with painted statues, magnificent stained-glass windows, and embroidered altar hangings. Unfortunately, Parliamentarians occupied the Cathedral during the Civil War and vandalized it in their customary manner. The chapel has since been restored, but many of the original decorated niches have been left badly damaged, particularly behind the altar.

Thomas Denny’s tribute to the Gloucestershire war poet Ivor Gurney can be seen in Bishop Goldsborough’s North Chantry Chapel. Gurney, who was also a chorister at Gloucester Cathedral, had a strong affection for the local countryside, which Denny shows us in his fabulous modern interpretation.

From the Lady Chapel we now head down the north side of the Nave. If you don’t mind walking up some stairs to the Tribune Gallery (or the Whispering Gallery as it’s also called) you’ll be rewarded with some fine views of the Presbytery and Great East Window, and there’s also a rare remnant from the Anglo-Saxon monastery thrown in for good measure.

What you’ve really come here to see of course is King Edward II’s tomb which can be found in the North Ambulatory. His life was full of controversy – and so was his death in 1327, and it’s the mystery surrounding his supposedly gruesome ending that has sparked so much debate over the years. I’m hoping to write about Berkeley Castle at some point, and so it’s best if I give you my thoughts there.

Whatever the truth, it prompted his son, Edward III to have this magnificent tomb built in his memory. It’s also the reason that Henry VIII saved the monastery from destruction during the dissolution, as Edward was one of his ancestors.

There’s still one more part of the Cathedral that really shouldn’t be missed – the Cloisters. Of all the styles associated with church architecture, Perpendicular is undoubtedly my favourite, and the cloisters here are a great example. After the Norman (or Romanesque) period, church architecture in England gradually morphed into the more elaborate Gothic style. There were three phases associated with it: First came Early English (c1190-1300) which started the transition, then came Decorated Gothic (c1250-1380) and finally Perpendicular (c1350-1550).

The Cloisters are not only a great place to see this beautiful architecture, it’s also an ideal place to finish a tour of the Cathedral because after following in the abbots’ footsteps, you can wander out into the Cloister Garth, take a well-earned rest and perhaps imagine what it must have been like here back in medieval times, when peace, solitude and prayers were often interspersed with bloodshed, murder and mayhem. Not much different to today then!

POSTED – MAY 2023