West Penwith Between Mousehole and Porthcurno
Those of you who followed my recent posts about the Newlyn artists may recall that some of those who studied at the Newlyn Art School founded by Stanhope and Elizabeth Forbes went on to form a separate colony of their own at Lamorna, a few miles along the coast.
Lamorna is a small village about a 10 minute drive from Newlyn, or an hour’s walk along the coast path from Mousehole. Situated in a lovely wooded valley (especially in springtime), the bubbling stream (because that’s all it is) slowly finds its way down to the cove. The artist, Laura Knight described her first visit here in the spring of 1907 like this: “It would seem that we had suddenly entered paradise; a densely-wooded valley filled with lichen-covered trees of greenish grey, whose branches threw bluish tracery of shadow over rich tufts of grass already speckled with the yellow of early primroses and white anemones.” It seems like she was as good with a pen as she was with a paint brush.
As you make your way down the valley towards the harbour you’ll come across the local pub – the ‘Lamorna Wink’. According to various sources, the unusual name probably derives from ‘kiddlywink’, a common name for a Cornish pub that was only licensed to sell beer or cider, but which was also a place used by smugglers to hide and sell their illegal contraband. If a customer couldn’t see any reason why he shouldn’t partake in some of this illicit alcohol that was hidden away from the local excise man, he would give the barman a wink; so the next time you’re in a Cornish pub and you see a big burly fisherman winking at the barman, it doesn’t necessarily mean that he’s a bit light on his feet.
From what I’ve told you so far, you might think of hotfooting it down to Lamorna tomorrow, but I would hold fire for a moment if I were you. For a start, the cove’s geology attracted those who saw the local granite as the perfect building material for quarrying. When John Freeman opened the first quarry on the eastern side of the cove in 1849, the environment was less important than being able to find stone suitable for construction projects like the Thames Embankment and the Longships Lighthouse off of Land’s End
The quay at Lamorna was built so that the granite could be loaded onto barges and taken around to Penzance for dressing, but like most industrial waste produced back then, the granite tips were left behind – and are still here. It wasn’t until the quarries started to close down that the artist colony started to gather momentum: Elizabeth and Stanhope Forbes used the valley as inspiration, both for themselves and their students, but they weren’t the only ones to recognise its potential.
Samuel John Birch, a self-taught artist from Egremont on the Wirral Peninsula, arrived in Lamorna in 1892 after first being attracted to the area by the Newlyn art scene. He studied at the Newlyn Art School and his work is similar to other artists in as much as they are largely outdoor scenes of the local area, but his style is somewhat different as you can see from the painting below of the quarries at Lamorna: If you’re in Cornwall and want to view the original you can see it hanging in Truro’s Royal Cornwall Museum.
Birch, being the first artist to arrive at Lamorna, was recognised as the father figure of the Lamorna Group, and to distinguish him from fellow artist, Lionel Birch, Forbes recommended that he added the epithet ‘Lamorna’ to his name, and is why he’s been known as Lamorna Birch ever since.
Two other artists that were students at Newlyn, but lived and worked in Lamorna, were Harold and Laura Knight (nee Johnson). Prior to moving down south, they both lived in the East Midlands where they met each other at the Nottingham School of Art. After getting married in 1903, they moved to Cornwall four years later.
Harold was already an established professional portrait painter when they arrived, but Laura, who had a more outward-going personality, was still trying to find her own niche, and it wasn’t long before she found it in her new location and her fellow Cornish artists.
In 1913, Laura’s extrovert personality thrust her into the spotlight when she painted fellow Lamorna artist, Ella Naper in Self Portrait with Nude. Nothing unusual about that you might think, but it was the first time a female artist had painted a nude model, which up until that point had been taboo and was a direct challenge to the British art establishment. The painting was shown in Newlyn’s Passmore Edwards Art Gallery and was well received by both local artists and press – but not by the Royal Academy.
Most of her work in West Cornwall was more in keeping with her motto ‘I paint life as it is’, and below is a YouTube video by the Art People Gallery that shows how much she enjoyed living and working here.
In 1916 Harold registered as a conscientious objector and was required to work as a farm labourer, which appealed to him only slightly more than fighting in the trenches, and no sooner than the war was over the couple decided to head off to London. They didn’t desert Lamorna altogether, presumably because Laura still had an affection for the place and the people: They retained their studio here and often returned, but most of their time was spent in and around the capital where Laura expanded her art into the world of theatre and ballet.
Living and working in London must have given her better connections within the art world because in 1929 she became the first female artist to be made a Dame of the British Empire. She never let her high status get in the way of her outlook on life though and had a profound interest in painting people from marginalised communities such as circus performers and Romany Gypsies.
In 1936 Dame Laura became only the third woman to be accepted as a full member of the Royal Academy, after which she became a war artist during the Second World War. Her husband Harold was a good artist, but it was Laura who had the most impact. Harold Knight died on 3rd October 1961 aged 87 and Dame Laura died on 7th July 1970 aged 92.
For anyone who would like to see more of Dame Laura Knight’s work you can find it on the YouTube video below.
There were other artists who made their mark in Lamorna; people like Alfred Munnings, Frank Gascoigne Heath, Harold Harvey and Ernest and Dod Proctor, but this post is not just about artists and so I need to move on, but I’ll leave you with a painting of a Newlyn fisherman’s daughter called Morning by Dod Proctor. It was voted ‘Picture of the Year’ at the 1927 Royal Academy Summer Exhibition and bought for the public by the Daily Mail and is still in the Tate’s collection.
It’s not just artists that have been attracted to Lamorna Cove but divers too. No doubt there’s a hope that something valuable might be found on the wreck of a 17th century privateer boat that still lies on the sea bed. Several cannon that were known to be on the boat have since vanished and a number of silver coins were discovered in the 1980s. Talking of treasure, who remembers Robert Newton as Long John Silver in the film version of Treasure Island? If you do, you may think, like I do, that it seems appropriate somehow that his ashes were scattered in the sea off Lamorna, and that’s because this was where he spent the early part of his life – Robert Newton I mean, not Long John Silver.
I don’t think for one minute that Roy Stevenson has any family connections to Robert Louis Stevenson, the author of Treasure Island, but he’s well known around these parts. The factory owner from Liverpool moved his family down to the area in the 1970s and bought the cove lock, stock, and barrel in 1994. The access road, car parks, café and harbour are all his, but the trouble is that he doesn’t want it anymore. He was hoping to sell it to the National Trust, but they don’t want it either. He’s had a number of offers from foreign investors who are willing to pay the asking price, but want to turn it into a private estate with no access for the general public, and he doesn’t want to do that. In the meantime, storms have taken its toll on the harbour and quayside and the cove is in desperate need of some TLC. Now you know why I told you not to be too hasty in rushing down here.
Just a short distance along the coast towards Porthcurno is the Tater du Lighthouse, the location for the terrible Penlee Lifeboat Disaster. On the cliffs above is Tregiffan Cottage, the former home of the author John le Carré, where between his arrival in the 1960s until his death in 2020, he spent time writing novels such as Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy, Smiley’s People and other great espionage classics.
If antiquities are more your thing, then you’re in luck because a stone’s throw inland are a number of ancient remains – crosses, a burial chamber – and best of all, a neolithic stone circle called the Merry Maidens, and its attendant Pipers.
This 24 metre perfect stone circle consists of 19 ‘Maidens’ who were turned to stone in punishment for dancing on a Sunday, and 300 metres away are two ‘Pipers’ who were petrified for playing the music. Some of you may recall a similar story about The ‘Hurlers’ that I covered at Minions on Bodmin Moor. If you don’t, and you want to, then you can read about it here.
The Merry Maidens were first seriously investigated by antiquarian William Borlase in 1769 who also documented an equally impressive stone circle just 200 metres away: A century later a descendent of his mentioned that there were still 7 stones there, but by the end of the 19th century, just like those cannons, they had all disappeared.
One thing that hasn’t disappeared though is Penberth Cove, a place I loved the very first time I saw it – and still do. About a 15 minute drive from Lamorna and 10 minutes or so from Land’s End, it couldn’t be more different than the commercial location everyone heads for.
This small traditional fishing cove is a throwback to how fishing villages all over Cornwall would have looked years ago. A narrow lane follows the Penberth River (which is just a stream again really) to a hamlet that was once home to a small, but thriving pilchard fishing community. Today it has been reduced to a handful of fishermen that scratch a living from catching mackerel, lobster or crab. The boats are still hauled up onto the slipway, but these days by an electric winch instead of the wonderful old capstan that is thankfully still here.
The fishing fraternity may not earn a fortune, but living here must have its compensations. There are no facilities to speak of, but if, like me, you just enjoy spending time having a chat to some of the locals, then you’ll love Penberth Cove. The hamlet, cove and cliffs are largely owned by the National Trust which have done a fantastic job of preserving this place as it should be – and probably why Roy Stevenson wanted them to buy Lamorna Cove.
POSTED – MARCH 2025
Originally posted 2025-03-14 10:55:37.
I enjoyed this post so much I’ve read it through three times. I like the video of Laura Knight’s paintings, there’s not one of them I can say I don’t like.
I don’t know if you’re familiar with the author Derek Tangye but he and his wife lived in a cliff top cottage near Lamorna Cove and he wrote a whole series of books about their lives there and the animals, mainly cats, which made the place their home. Part of their former land is a nature reserve originally set up by them. I have most of the books and only recently re-read a couple of them.
I thought you might have looked at a post with Mousehole in it Eunice, and I’m glad that you enjoyed reading it. I have heard of Derek Tangye as it happens, but I’ve never read any of his books
That whole process is scary. Why do we jump into these things, and then reap the consequences?
I know. I’m sure working with nature doesn’t mean that we should be playing around with it.
What a lovely tranquil ending, Malc. I can imagine fiddling about down there quite happily. I’m sorry but WordPress seem to have omitted you from my Reader lately so I’m a bit slow to catch up.
Glad you enjoyed it Jo. Not sure why WordPress hasn’t got me on your list but thanks for seeking me out again. Personally, I’m just pleased that anyone finds any of my posts interesting enough to read, whenever it is.
Bless you, that made me smile. Have a good weekend, Malc xx
I’m always pleased to hear that I’ve put a smile on someone’s face Jo 🤗 and have a great weekend yourself.
Sitting out the rain, with our car in the garage for a painting repair. We seem to have reversed positions with the UK at present, but I’m sure it’s temporary. All peaceful here xx
Hope you don’t get rain like they’ve been having in Spain though Jo ⛈️
A considerable amount but no serious flooding xx
We don’t get much information about these things up here, but I’m guessing that Spain hasn’t controlled the infrastructure as well as it should have done in order to control these acts of nature. Am I right or wrong?
That’s a big question and I wouldn’t presume to know the answer, Malc. The weather has been extraordinary by anyone’s standards. One minute there was talk of diverting water from the Guadiana because of impending drought, and now we’re talking about releasing water from the dams because they’re over capacity!
Thanks Jo. Sorry to put you on the spot, but it’s a question that I’m sure Spanish people will be asking – and I’ve not even asked whether cloud seeding is being used ☁️
I do see why you said not to hurry to visit but just the same I can see much that is attractive in that cove – however I can also see why your preference is for Penberth which looks lovely!
Yes! Penberth is a bit special – to me at least Sarah.
Malcolm, I enjoy all your blogs when I get to read them. However, I absolutely loved this recent blog because it had so much information that I found interesting — in particular, learning about Lamorna and the artists drawn there and especially being introduced to Laura Knight, an artist I was completely unfamiliar with. The video of her work which you included was eye-opening! I absolutely LOVE her work!!! As a student artist myself, I can definitely see wanting to live in Lamorna or surrounding area. There’s so much to love about your blog! I want to read it over again! Loved the Lamorna wink!! Stunning photos!
It’s great to hear from you Syl and thank you for reading. To give such a ringing endorsement of this post is music to my ears as you’ve produced a lot of great blogs yourself including the last one, which may have taken a while, but like I said, was worth the wait. Just don’t make it so long next time 😊
Interesting read Malc and well researched. I walked from Porthcurno to Lamorna a few years back and I’ve got that same picture of the cottage with the colourful buoys outside 😀
Thanks Jim. I’ve always loved Penwith.
A beautiful part of your country on a magic day. It makes me want to hit the Coastal Path there. Thanks for the insight… and temptation! 🙂 Mel
I’ve never been an intrepid walker like you Mel, but I have covered a good portion of the South-West Coast Path in stages over time. I’m not sure if you know it at all, but it runs from Minehad to Poole and is 630 miles long.
Absotlutely WONDERFUl post. Having spotted it last night and come by I left and I saved it to read with my coffee there just now, cos I could see this wa s a very detailed post. Aand WOW. I just want to come down now and do that walk, stop at that pub, look at the paintings, spend time wandering among the merry maidens. Not sure re the Mr wanting to watch for a dolphin …. mind you so long as ihe is not a on a ship, he might. But thank you so much. Absolutely superb.
Ah, thank you Shey. You really know how to make me feel why blogging can be so worthwhile, and I don’t need to tell you how much your words mean. 🙏⭐
Thjank YOU Malc. Such a pleasure and joy to read this. You really do know how to give a blogger a good read BUT also a good itinerary. Truly.
If I ever consider packing this game in, remind me to take a look back at one of your comments. 😊⭐
Oh don’t pack this in. , All your blogs are fantastic , this one is even more.
It’s not on my radar Shey. There are still too many places to write about, but not only that, I couldn’t possibly stop reading your smashing comments now could I? 🙏
Well, Malc, Dame Laura Knight was quite the character, wasn’t she? And incredibly talented, and prolific, it seems. From the video of her work, she also seems to have had several different styles, which is very interesting, and it demonstrates how versatile she was in both subject and genre. And not only was she excellent at painting people, she was great at horses as well. She really did ‘paint life as it is’, in all it’s variety, character and colour.
I hadn’t known anything about this area, and until your last Newlyn post, I’d never heard of Lamorna, but once again I’ve very much enjoyed learning about the place and it’s colony of artists. From Laura’s beautifully evocative description I was half way to packing my bags for a visit. It does look a wonderful area to explore with lots of interesting and picturesque places to explore. And although I can see why you’d suggest that folk might hold their horses before heading down there, with all this area’s links with art, literature, film and pirates along with it’s history, stone circles and attractive coastline – let alone the chance to throw some winks around for booze at the pub! – I’d still go! 🙂
Thanks for your email, which I will respond to very soon. In the meantime, have a great weekend and thanks for another excellent post. 🙂
There’s no doubt Alli that Laura was a woman of substance. As you quite rightly say, she was extremely talented with a lot of strings to her bow. Poor Harold must have had to live in her shadow for much of the time, but he possibly didn’t mind. Perhaps where this couple was concerned it was a case of ‘behind every good woman is a good man’. Who knows? 😊
The area between Mousehole and Porthcurno is largely overlooked which is one of the reasons I like it. As you know, it’s places that are not so easy to get to that have the most profound feel to them. If I had my time over again, I think I’d like to create a blog about the special places that people don’t visit and why they’re missing a treat, but then again, it might be best that they’re left as they are. Between Penberth and Porthcurno is the tiny village of Treen which has a smashing pub called the Logan Rock Inn which is a reference to the Logan Rock on the cliffs just beyond the village. I didn’t write about it because I don’t appear to have any photos of it for some reason, but if you’re interested, it’s worth a google.
Looking forward to reading your response to my email, but only when you’re ready, and thanks for the lovely comment, and hope you enjoy your weekend too. 😊
From what I’ve read in your post about Laura and Harold as people and as a couple, I reckon Harold would have been happier to hang back from the limelight while Laura took centre stage. It obviously worked for them, anyway. 🙂
The Logan Rock Inn looks the perfect pub to spend a few relaxed hours. I love the olde world look of the place, and the menu is excellent too. I want to go!! Another undiscovered haven to add to the list. 🙂 You could always do some more of these ‘hidden gems’ posts, as I’ve always enjoyed learning about places you’ve covered on the road less travelled. They’d fit in well with your blog as it is,.
Enjoy the sunshine, and I’ll be in touch. 🙂
The pub is good, but I was referring mainly to the Logan Rock itself. It was perched in such a way that it would rock back and forth but couldn’t be shifted – until some navy chaps proved otherwise
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logan_Rock
Oh, wow, I see what you mean! the rock looks pretty amazing too! We have a ‘rocking stone’ here up on Great Orme too, although as far as I know it doesn’t have such a great story as the Logan Rock’s.
Apologies, trust me to get waylaid by a pub! Still, thanks for showing me the error of my ways… 😉
LOL. I can’t blame you for that. By the way, while I think of it I read yesterday that the Longest Johns are appearing at the Bristol Harbour Fesrival in July. It made me think of you and Maddie.
Oh wow, she’d love that! 😀
Thank you, Malc, for sharing another wonderful post. I didn’t know these fabulous places
I appreciated the places, with their history and beautiful photos, the paintings and the fascinating references to so many famous painters and writers💝
It’s always good to hear that I’ve shown you somewhere you didn’t know about Luisa. You’d love it here I’m sure, and thanks for your lovely comments. 🥰
As always you’re more than welcome, my dear friend!
Wishing you a happy evening
You too my lovely 💙
Interesting artists and fab photos for sure. I love the lighthouse one… very good information about a lovely part of the world Malc. Cheers and all the best!
Thanks Francesc There is something special about West Penwith – and it’s a great place to have a Friday night drink – not that you would be interested.
No? Are you sure? Or are you having me on? Hehehe… Yes, it really seems like a special place for sure. I am going to look further into these artists you have mentioned. All the best Malc and a great Friday and weekend to you.
You too of course Francesc 🍷
Brilliant!
Thank you, Malc, for keeping me busy with your excellent post as I had to read it a few times to fully appreciate the paintings, the history of the Lamorna village and Cove, the story of the pub “Lamorna Wink”, and the various references to famous painters and writers such as John le Carre, and the fascinating story of the quarry, the Merry Maidens, and your favorite Penberth Cove. After your paean to this part of the country, there is nothing left but to say thank you, Malc, and book the ticket to Newley and then proceed on foot to Lamorna pub, before exploring more.
Of course, I love all the paintings!
Joanna
Thank you as always Joanna. I’ve learnt something from you today as paean is a word I haven’t come across before. I hope you’re sending us another one of your Masterpieces this weekend.
Thank you, Malc, for your gracious reply! I am glad that you liked my paying attention to all the interesting details that caught my attention. Very kind of you to mention my post, and yes, it is coming soon.
Joanna
Looking forward to it Joanna.
Outstanding!
Thanks GP. That’s really kind of you to say so.
Fun post, Malc. Beautiful part of the world.
Thank you Pat. Your comment is very much appreciated.