North Devon Coastline from the Sea - Pt 1 Morte Point to Ilfracombe
Apparently, Devon has more than 500 miles of coastline, and as far as I know, is the only county that has two coasts. Where I live on the south coast, we have a sunny, southerly aspect (when the sun makes an appearance that is) with a fairly sheltered environment. The north coast however is quite different, and there are two reasons for that. Firstly, it faces the prevailing south-westerly winds, and secondly, thanks to tectonic activity, the geology of the western side of the country has created a much harder rock than the softer sedimentary rocks on the eastern side. In other words, Britain goes downhill from west to east if you like – geologically speaking of course.
Although Devon’s south coast has some beautiful scenery, even I would have to admit that the rugged north coast is even better. Walking this section of the South-West Coast Path requires a fair bit of stamina, but as an easier alternative, and with, arguably, a better view of this magnificent coastline, it’s just as rewarding to enjoy it from the sea, and I did just that by taking two boat trips out of Ilfracombe with the Ilfracombe Princess – one that sailed west to Morte Point, and the other that sailed east to Great Hangman, which, at 800 ft, boasts the highest sea cliff in England.
Both posts will be more of a picture gallery than an in-depth study of the area, and I’m going to start off at Morte Point and work my way up the coast to Ilfracombe and then on up to Great Hangman. The whole of this coastline is a veritable ship’s graveyard, and so it seems appropriate therefore that we begin our journey at Morte Point, which literally means Death Point, so sit back and enjoy this fabulous coastline from the comfort of your armchair without the need to reach for the seasick tablets.
Spartacus – Khachaturian
South of Morte Point is the popular long sandy beach of Woolacombe, but we’re heading in the opposite direction towards the secluded and much quieter beach at Rockham where, instead of sand, rock pools provide the perfect habitat for marine life rather than surfers.
The coastline between Rockham Beach and Bull Point harbours a colony of seals, and although we did see a few today, there weren’t as many as there normally are.
It’s impossible to estimate how many shipwrecks have occurred along this coastline over the years, but it’s been far too many whatever the number is. It wasn’t a difficult decision therefore to agree to build a lighthouse here, but it wasn’t quite so easy to decide where to exactly. The obvious place was at Morte Point where the Devil’s Teeth have sent many a sailor down to a watery grave, but for whatever reason, it was decided to locate it at Bull Point instead.
The lighthouse opened on 10th June 1879, no doubt saving many lives before it too was in danger. In September 1972, the keeper felt tremors and evacuated the lighthouse and by doing so probably saved his own life because a few days later the cliff on which it was standing gave way and crashed into the sea, taking part of the lighthouse with it and leaving what was left in a precarious position. Using much of the original equipment, a new lighthouse was built further inland, and is the one that can be seen here now.
The coastline between Bull Point and Lee Bay is not conducive to swimming but when the tide’s out there’s a decent small sandy beach at the appropriately named Sandy Cove near Lee Bay.
You could be forgiven for thinking that the nearer to Ilfracombe we get, the less attractive the coastline becomes, but on the contrary, if anything it gets better.
The scenery obviously changes though when we reach Ilfracombe, and the first thing to come into view are the Tunnels Beaches. The tunnels in question were hand built in the 1820s by Welsh miners for the Ilfracombe Sea Bathing Company so that the Ladies Beach’ could be accessed separately to the Gentlemen’s Beach, both of which had their own tidal pools. They aren’t used like that these days obviously, with the Gentlemen’s beach being used as a wedding venue and the Ladies Beach for public use. Unfortunately, in April 2025, a rock fall closed the Ladies’ Beach to the general public temporarily for safety reasons.
Before reaching Ilfracombe Harbour you can’t miss Capstone Hill. It doesn’t have any historical significance as such, but it does offer some good views from the top.
As we sail into Ilfracombe Harbour, we’re confronted by Verity, a statue by Damien Hirst, and love her or loathe her, I’ll talk about her a bit more in my next post before we leave the harbour for the second leg of our journey up towards Great Hangman.
POSTED – JULY 2025
Originally posted 2025-07-10 16:28:41.
I love rugged coastlines like this, and like you would definitely opt for a boat trip over a hike! Not only is it easier, you can also appreciate the geology better from out at sea. Just look at those tilted rock layers at Bull Point!
I used to love walking the coast path Sarah, but there’s no doubt that viewing a coastline like this from the sea is not only easier (if you’re not the skipper that is) but, in my opinion, also a better visual experience.
Now you’ve got me desperate for more. Great post
Thanks Shey. Have I ever told you that you’re a star?
YOu are no sae bad yirsel, as we say here.
LOL
A great article with beautiful photos! As always Malc, you provide a great read with great information! And it is so good to see you around again! All the best!
Thank you Francesc. It’s good to be back. Hope you’re enjoying your summer
Thank you Malc! It’s good to have you back! And you too, my friend, have a great summer!
What a wonderfully rugged coastline, Malc. Looks like you had a lovely day for bobbing along xx
We did but I wouldn’t want to do it in rough weather Jo.
Nor me! xx
Welcome back Malc. you’ve been missed – I hope all is well in your neck of the woods. An interesting post with great photos as always 😊
Ah! Thank you Eunice. I needed a break from WP for a while, but I’m back now, and I’m glad you enjoyed the North Devon coastline from your armchair.
It was an absolutely fascinating read. I loved the descriptions, explanations, and magnificent photos.
I really liked the Verity statue: the Italian word “verità” means truth.
You’ve created a very interesting article, as always! 💙🙏💙
Thank you so much Luisa. You’re a true friend 💙
It’s always a pleasure for me to read your posts 💕