Clovelly - The Great Debate
When I started this website I made a conscious decision not to voice my opinion too often because, as someone who doesn’t like being told how to think, I don’t suppose anyone else does either, and so for this article I’m going to do what I normally do, and present the facts as I know them and let you, the readers, decide.
People who are familiar with Clovelly will have already guessed what this post is about. The debate in question is whether it’s right to charge people to visit the village. Most people don’t think it is, but then again, I don’t think most people know all the facts either.
Part of the reason that people cry ‘rip off’ or worse is because when people turn up to Clovelly they don’t expect to pay to walk through a village that appears to be just that – an everyday village. The fact that it’s picturesque has nothing to do with it as far as they’re concerned. The problem though, is that it’s not just another everyday village, and I’ll endeavour to explain why.
The thing to remember is that it isn’t just a hotch-potch of buildings owned by various individuals, but an ancient manor that has been owned by just a handful of families since it was registered in the Domesday Book. After the Norman Conquest, owners included William I’s wife Matilda and the Giffard family who acquired it in 1242. In 1370 they sold it to Sir William Cary, whose family held it until the Hamlyn family bought it in 1738, and their descendants have been running it ever since. In other words, it has been in the private hands of just two families for the last 650 years. Today the estate comprises of woodlands, 2,000 acres of farmland and the village itself.
George Cary was the man responsible for turning Clovelly into a fishing village when he built a breakwater and fish cellars towards the end of the 16th century, but the person to thank for how the village looks now is Christine Hamlyn who inherited the estate in 1884 and dedicated her life to renovating and preserving the character of Clovelly and its buildings. The village wasn’t known to the outside world until Charles Kingsley wrote about it in his book Westward Ho! He lived in the village for a while and his cottage is now a museum. Maybe this is where Christine Hamlyn got her enthusiasm from to smarten the place up. Who knows?
One of her descendants, John Rous, runs the Clovelly Estate today and explains that the admission costs are needed to maintain Clovelly’s unique character. The estate has been charging an entry fee to the village since 1924 and most of the money goes on maintenance using traditional materials and skilled labour. They must be doing something right because only 7 out of the village’s 71 buildings are not listed.
Cottages are not for sale, but occasionally they come up for rent – but only to people who are prepared to join in the community spirit. In recent times the demographics have changed in many places where locals can’t afford to live in their own communities any longer, so this is an important consideration by the estate. Many families have been here a long time, and village life seems to be how it should be in many ways.
Living in Clovelly has other practical problems though: The steep cobbled High Street is not accessible to motor vehicles, and for many years donkeys were used to carry baskets of fish, goods – and even people up to the top of the village, but the practice stopped in the 1960s. Today, villagers use sledges instead, and donkeys just give kids rides around their meadow near the Visitor Centre.
For visitors, it means that it’s a long hard slog back uphill unless you’re able to use the Land Rover service that charges a small fee. It officially operates Easter-October between 10 and 4.30, but it might be best to check beforehand if it’s essential.
Now for the information you’ve been waiting for – how much is it to visit? Current prices (April 2023) are Adults £8.75, children between 7 and 16 £5.10, Under 7’s Free, and there are concessions for families. Your ticket also includes parking at the Visitor Centre, a 20 minute AV introductory film, entry to the Kingsley Museum and Fisherman’s Cottage and Clovelly Court Gardens (home of John Rous).
Well there you have it. As John Rous is keen to point out, visitors are often happy enough to pay to go to a National Trust property, but what do you think – would you pay to visit Clovelly? If you really don’t want to, there is a public footpath that allows access to the village for nothing, and plenty of people do, and they call those who do pay, ‘muppets’. Who do you think is right? Answers please on a Clovelly postcard to Easymalc’s Wanderings.
Innocence – Jo Manji
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- The Charles Kingsley Museum
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- Fisherman’s Cottage
POSTED – APRIL 2023
Originally posted 2023-04-23 11:45:40.
Well I’d happily damn well pay. If you don’t like the heat stay pout the kitchen. This is not your average lovely little village. And I like the idea that the houses are not for sale. So many places now where locals are being priced out. Now I will shut up.
No need to Shey, it’s a big bone of contention down here, believe you me.
The thing is as well what I see of places like Glencoe, the houses get snapped up for Air b&B, holiday rentals. It’s shocking.
This sort of thing definitely needs to be controlled because it’s unsustainable. Down here, there are restaurants and bars that are having to close up because the staff they need can’t afford to live here.
That is the knock on with this kind of thing. So you’re right.
Sad, but true.
I don’t have a problem with them charging. If you don’t want to pay there are plenty of more ordinary but still very pretty villages to visit, and as it includes parking AND the museum, which normally you would expect to pay for, I think it’s very reasonable.
And more importantly, it helps keep the village safe from unwanted development and people who won’t even live here.
Sounds like a bargain to me. A few years ago we paid 10 pounds just to park at Bolton Abbey!
Dick Turpin’s alive and well where car parking charges are concerned.
I’m happy to pay. Even taking the whole family (2 adults and 3 children) it wouldn’t be unreasonable for a day out of fresh air, heritage and beautiful streets. I don’t see it as paying for entry, I see it as paying for preservation. As for those who find the free way in? Well, that’s up to them but not in the spirit of things. Hopefully they at least spend a few quid in the village and put in to the local pot. A thoughtful post on a much written about place- enjoyed this one!
Even though I didn’t voice my opinion in the post you probably read between the lines. Your thoughts are exactly the same as mine again, and I’m pleased to say that all the comments are much the same. There’s still hope for us all yet.
It is easier for me to comment on the second question, the ethics or otherwise of using the public footpath to circumvent payment at the front entrance. The same happens at Westonbirt Arboretum and at NT sites like Colston Fishacre. My answer ‘if you don’t want to pay the fare, don’t ride on the bus’. However I understand the problem for families which include 2 or 3 children and I wish sites would depend upon the adult entrance fee and allow children in free or perhaps up to 3 children for the price of 1. It would make proper entrance so much more accessible for children and provide the educational benefit to most. It’s not a great example to take your children in by the back door and escape payment. Is that what they will do in the future as adults? The first question though is about the morality of charging in the first place to enter the village. Obviously charges could be raised instead to see features in the village, but if the owners choose to charge for the experience as a whole they are fully entitled to do so. Nobody is compelled to visit and it is not visitor experience which is paid for by the state – few are. If the charges are set too high then the law of diminishing returns will come into play and numbers attending will drop. That is not likely to happen while adult entrance is under £10. I am supportive of the estate’s choice to charge as long as the income generated is reflected in the maintenance and development of village which I think it is.
Thank you for your thoughtful and detailed comment Adrian. I fully agree with what you say, and it would seem that everyone who has commented feel the same as we do, which is heartening. As for families, some of the attractions around the country are enormously expensive, but at least Clovelly has family ticket concessions and is free for those under 7.
Well it does seem a pretty unique place, and a rather special time capsule, so it seem right to pay towards its upkeep if you’re going to visit. It’s clearly nothing like a normal village as you can’t buy a house and there are strict conditions to even living there at all. And it’s nice to see such limited vehicular access to the High Street without a steady stream of modern cars bombing up and down and ruining the atmosphere. With its medieval roots, its unique provenance and so much else that sets it apart from any other settlement, it seems to me that it qualifies as a tourist attraction that needs particular preservation. So I’d happily pay £8.75 to explore Clovelly, especially with all the extras that are thrown in with the price. There aren’t enough places like this left in the UK, so keep it special, I say. 🙂
I think so too. Correct me if I’m wrong but I believe you also have to pay to go into Portmeirion as well. It always amazes me how many people want everything for free but don’t mind paying a fortune for the latest gadgets and Nike trainers 🙂
You’re right, Malc, and I thought that about Portmeirion as I was reading your post. And at an entry cost of £18 for an adult and £11 for a child over 5 it makes Clovelly seem a steal! I haven’t been to Portmeirion as a) I think it’s too expensive, and b) it’s not really my thing. I think I’ll stick to the castles for now (!), but I’d be more than happy to pay (literally) a visit to Clovelly. 🙂
I read an article about Portmeirion many years ago which I found quite fascinating, but strangely enough when I had the opportunity to visit I didn’t bother. I think it was possibly because there were so many other places to visit that didn’t have a hefty entrance fee 🙂
That’s precisely how I feel, Malc. And as someone who lives in North Wales now, I can vouch for exactly how much there is to do here that doesn’t cost a fortune, or anything for that matter. Why would you pay such a high entry fee when you can go to amazing places like Beddgelert or Dolbadarn Castle and all their stunning surroundings for nothing? No, Portmeirion’s not for me either. 🙂
I quite agree Alli. Apart from the entry costs, Portmeirion didn’t evolve organically like Clovelly. I much prefer somewhere that is either historically interesting or is part of a natural setting. Portmeirion is interesting in a way, but to me it doesn’t look as though it even belongs there. Stick to your castles and nature if I were you Alli 🙂
I will, indeed, Malc. You’ve pinpointed another reason why Portmeirion doesn’t appeal to me either. I didn’t like Milton Keynes for very similar reasons, but at least you didn’t have to pay to go there! All too man-made. I suppose, ironically, it could be argued that the same could be said for Edward I’s ‘bastide’ castle towns, but then again they’ve earned their place in our heritage with all the rich history that’s played out around them, and most of that was directly related to their construction over 800 years ago! 😀
And they were built with a purpose in mind. The landscape of North Wales has been enhanced by their presence, and somehow I don’t see that Portmeirion will have the same appeal in 800 years time – if it’s still there 🙂
Very true. Again, I agree entirely, and no, I doubt Portmeirion will stand the same test of time. 😊
The mind boggles as to what life will be like in 800 years time for everything and everybody, but I can’t think about that as I’m not even sure what I’m supposed to be doing now. Enjoy the rest of your day Alli, and thanks for the chat 🙂
I’d be surprised if humans are still walking the Earth in 800 years time, but our beautiful planet will still be turning. 😃 Good chat, and enjoy your day too. 😊
I think it’s reasonable to pay since one doesn’t have to visit and there is a free option
Thanks for commenting Pat. I agree
Re your reply to Alli Templeton about Portmeirion – yes you do have to pay to visit, current adult price for a day ticket a whopping £18.00 or £14.50 concession.
Thanks for the info Eunice.
Well I learn something every time I read one of your posts Malc. I’ve often seen photos of Clovelly and thought what a pretty little village it looks but I didn’t know you have to pay to visit. It isn’t ‘just a village’ though is it, there’s a whole lot of history and heritage there too. £8.75 for an adult ticket is nothing compared to the cost of entry to many places – it costs me £12.50 to visit Gresgarth Hall gardens! – so I would be quite happy to pay for the photography opportunities alone, especially if the money goes on maintenance to keep the village looking as pretty as it does. I’m glad they don’t still use donkeys though 🙂
Thanks Eunice and well said. Your thinking is the same as mine 🙂
Thank you, Malc, for the introduction to Clovelly village and the pictures. It looks so interesting that you can think of me as “muppet” because I would pay happily to see the heritage and such a good up-keep of the place.
Joanna
You’re no muppet Joanna that’s for sure 🙂 I’m wondering when we can expect to read your next offering, or shouldn’t I ask.
As you are a dear friend, Malc, you can ask anything you want. I am going through a difficult divorce and I have to prepare masses of legal papers and keep calm and carry on. The other party makes everything to obstruct and delay proceedings, including perjury in trying to hide the assets. This is the reason I cannot publish my posts for a few weeks. Thank you for your interest and asking.
Joanna
I’m so sorry Joanna. I can delete this comment if you so wish and email you a reply instead
You don’t need to delete my comment as I have nothing to hide and I should explain my silence.
If you ever want to say anything to me, you know where to find me. No matter how many papers I need to fill in and how many hearings there are, I will always read your wonderful posts and comment.
Joanna
That ‘s good enough for me Joanna – and thank you 🙂 🤞
Well Malc, without a doubt it is quite a lovely place and well worth the small fee, so I would not really mind. However, if husband and wife and three children go there they will increase their entry fee quite a lot, so I can understand why people take the free route… In any event it is a place worthy of a visit and your photographs are fabulous, as they usually are! Cheers mate and all the best!
Thanks for commenting Francesc and just for the record there are concessionary prices for a family. Hope you’re enjoying your trip wherever it is.
Already home. Three days south towards Alicante province and the beach. There were lots of your countrymen there…
I’m not surprised. I’ve been there myself and met some of them 🙂
Beautiful beaches…
I certainly agree with that F