Winchester - The First Capital of England
If someone were to ask me where to go for that quintessential English experience then Winchester would have to be right up there near the top of my list.
Its location, where the River Itchen flows through the chalk Downs of the Hampshire countryside, helps give this small city of 45,000 people an air of peace and calm that belies its past history and status as Hampshire’s county town.
It was this precise spot, where the river could be forded, that attracted a Celtic tribe from the continent to build a settlement here. The tribe we now call the Belgae arrived around 100BC, but it would appear that their enclosure at Oram’s Arbour and fort at St. Catherine’s Hill had been abandoned by the time the Romans arrived in AD70, who then created a settlement of their own which they called Venta Belgarun (Marketplace of the Belgae).
The river at this point split into two around an island, and although it made for a good crossing point, it was also liable to flooding, and so the Romans diverted the river through a single channel, which not only saved their town from flooding but also gave it an extra line of defence on their eastern flank. The river still flows through this channel and can best be seen on the lovely Weirs Walk.
Venta Belgarum became the 5th largest town in Britannia, but after the departure of the Romans around 410AD, Winchester, like the rest of the country, was left abandoned to the native Britons.
Across the North Sea, Jutes, Angles, and Saxons (who came from modern day Denmark, Germany, and The Netherlands) seized the opportunity to fill the void left by the Romans and set up several independent kingdoms, one of which was Wessex (West Saxons).
This Dis-United Kingdom was eventually brought under control during the 9th century when King Alfred arrived on the scene. By defeating the Danes and making Mercia part of his kingdom with the marriage of his daughter to Ethelred, he became the de facto king of all the Anglo-Saxon land, an area which we now call England.
Alfred the Great, as he became known, created his capital at Wintanceaster using the old Roman town as his starting point. In fact, Wintanceaster derives from Venta and Ceaster (fortified town).
You can now see how all this background information proves that Winchester was in fact the very first capital of England.
By the time William the Conqueror defeated King Harold at Hastings Winchester had become the most important city in the country, but instead of destroying the city William built a royal palace and a castle here, but the reality was that he had set his heart on making London his capital, and Winchester’s importance began to fade.
His palace doesn’t exist anymore, but the castle has managed to retain its Great Hall where King Arthur’s ‘Round Table’ has hung for the last 600 years.
I can’t finish talking about the history of Winchester without mentioning its most visited attraction – the Cathedral.
During the Anglo-Saxon period Christianity was brought to these shores, and around 648 King Cenwalh ordered a church to be built at Winchester, making it both the royal and ecclesiastical centre of Wessex.
The Old Minster is long gone, but the Normans started building a new cathedral nine years after the conquest, which just goes to show how important the history of Winchester is and how its importance coincided with the country’s early history.
In 2016 a survey named Winchester as the best place to live in England, and it’s not difficult to see why: Just an hour’s train ride from London, it boasts a higher than average life expectancy, low crime rates, low unemployment and high living standards.
Even if you can’t afford to live here then a visit to one of England’s most interesting and beguiling cities should be on everyone’s list of places to see – and if you’re particularly interested in learning more about England’s early history, then it’s an absolute must.
Originally posted 2018-09-01 15:48:30.
Another fascinating post and for the sake of Winchesters’ beautyr and olde world charm, maybe ti was as well elsewhere was viewed as the place to be.
I don’t know if you’ve been to Winchester, but in my opinion it’s one of the best towns to live in England.
I’ve not. A lot of it now is my hubby doesn’t like travelling long distances by road and it costs a fortune on trains–the irony being that last weekend when we went to Arisaig it took longer by road than it would have taken us to head to Yorkshire. Oh well, it is what makes it nice to see your posts.
You stay close to home and I’ll keep writing then 🙂
It’s a deal.
In the mid 1970’s (when I was not as astute at travel planning) I stayed in Bournemouth at a B&B and trained into London for a conference. I’m sure there was a stop in Winchester. If I ever return that looks like a good place to explore, if for no other reason than there is a lovely river which splits to briefly become two. Google maps is so helpful!
I still remember the pubs in town and the plowman’s lunch we had one day after riding horseback. There is so much to see in your little island nation across the pond. It’s fun to dream even if they don’t become reality.
Stewart
Thanks for taking a look Stewart. You’re so right about how much there is to see in our little island nation, but I can’t for the life of me understand why so many people are trying to destroy our legacy. Admittedly, some of it is not good, but so much of it is. It’s called evolution.
This looks like a wonderful place!!!
I think so. Not only is it quintessential England, it’s full of history too. Thanks for taking a look 🙂
At some point we are going to hike England Coast to Coast! When we do, we’ll add this to our itinerary 😍
East to West or South to North?
West to east 😊
I’m intrigued (I’m not really being nosey 😊) If you’re hoping to include Winchester then you’re obviously not doing Wainwright’s Coast to Coast walk in Northern England.
It also sounds that you’re American, and I’m not sure if you’re walking or driving. The only reason I mention this is that if for any reason you might need some suggestions with your itinerary, then feel free to contact me. Just trying to be helpful 😊
No, that’s it! But we will also add some London time to the adventure.
Great! I guessed that you’d have it covered
It’ll be a self guided trip. We’ll use Macs Adventure to book everything for us and transport our bags 😉
Sounds a great idea. The offer still stands if you need any advice that I can help with 🙂
Beautiful! I love the song too. 🎶
Me too. Thanks AOC
I remember the 1960s song Winchester Cathedral. I visited it in the mid 1980s. I had done a study of the publishing history of Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice in library school. I was fortunate enough to see her burial site in the Cathedral and her home in Chawton. Lovely write-up.
Thanks for your kind words once again. It’s always heartening for me to see people get something from my blogs, whether it’s memories or inspiration. I don’t know what name you like to go by but equipsblog doesn’t seem quite right somehow 🙂
Good day Malc! Hope you are having a happy Friday! It’s a lovely day here in Valencia and I actually went out to the supermarket but because it is 01 MAY and a holiday, the usual store was closed so I had to walk a few hundred metres more, a treat! In any event, this is a lovely post indeed! Great photographs and the one with the river going through the town reminded me of so many Spanish towns in the north, in Navarre, where I lived once…great information as is the case with your great articles. I wish you all the best, health and well being and for the world, I surely wish that wiser heads would prevail and that they stop this madness which will cause greater harm than this virus ever could…
Take good care my friend, and stay safe,
Cheers!
Francesc
Thank you for your smashing comments again Francesc. I hope my blogs in some small way help you to escape from the lockdown nightmare.
It’s good to see that you’ve been out this mornining, and with the lockdown in Spain easing off and the weather warming up over there you should soon be feeling quite chirpy 🙂
As for my hope that the world could change for the better after this crisis is over, I won’t be holding my breath I’m afraid.
Thank you Malc…well, I won’t hold my breath either, you are right…but I do know that I will look at things with a refreshed mind, I think…
In any event, I hope you enjoy the weekend and especially wine time!
Cheers,
Francesc
You too Francesc. I’ll have a virtual drink with you tonight to celebrate your escape outside tomorrow
Sounds great Malc, and thanks!
I had heard about the cathedral, and it has been my wish ever since to visit Winchester one day. But I didn’t know that there was so much more to Winchester! Great post as usual Malcolm!
Thanks for visiting Simone. Winchester is a pleasant place to visit even without all the history
Great post, Malc. I love Winchester but I haven’t been there for ages. Better rectify that soon. Thanks for jogging my memory and pointing me in the direction of this wonderful ancient city. 🙂
I’m glad that you’ve been to Winchester Alli, because it’s certainly one of those places that people with our interests are bound to enjoy
You can say that again Malc! I’m looking forward to going back there and discovering all the other places you’ve shown me. Thanks again. 😊
One visit to Winchester is nowhere near enough. Thanks for your support Alli 🙂
Absolutely, I can see that now. 🙂
Great post about this interesting city. From your excellent photos I can tell it’s one I’d like to explore. It also sounds like a great place to live!
Glad you enjoyed it Sylvia. There’s more to come.
This certainly sounds like a place I would like to visit.
I’m sure you would like Winchester Don
Sounds very romantic 🙂
One of my favourite cities too. I spent six weeks in Southampton one summer, as part of my university course, and my then boyfriend was in Winchester, so I visited frequently. We had many happy evenings with him fishing (illegally!) in the river from Weirs Walk and then drinking in one of the pubs. But we also took time to explore the history and I’ve loved the city ever since 🙂