Barcelona - The Gothic Quarter
If I had any hope of achieving all what I wanted to do today I needed to be up nice and early – so I woke up 1½ hours late. Not a great start, but at least it was a nice sunny Sunday morning to wake up to when my eyes did finally open.
After a quick breakfast I wandered down the Rambla to the Bethlehem Church before crossing the road and into the Gothic Quarter, or Barri Gòtic as it’s called here. Unlike yesterday, it was lovely and peaceful as I ventured deeper into the barrio where I stumbled across some remnants of the old Roman City wall in the Carrer de la Palla.
At the end of the road was Plaça Nova, the epicentre of the Barri Gòtic, and where the 14th century cathedral is located. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but I can tell you what I wasn’t – the whole bloody front of it covered in scaffolding. As it happens, it wasn’t quite as big a disaster as you might think because the façade wasn’t a medieval masterpiece, but a late 19th century Neo-Gothic reconstruction. Even so, I would rather have seen it without the scaffolding.
It’s not the only medieval building in the Barri Gòtic to change its original appearance because a rise in Catalonian nationalism during the 20th century saw many old buildings Gothicized (if there’s such a word) to help make the area more attractive to visitors, so it’s worth remembering that not everything is quite what it seems around here.
I may have been disappointed with how the cathedral was looking from the outside today, but I had a much more pleasant surprise when I found out that it was possible to visit the inside before the morning service started. I hadn’t expected that, and I don’t think that’s the case now. It may not have been an intimate visit as such but I did at least get to see what it was like, and I was thankful for that. If you would also like to see what the interior looked like take a look at the excellent short video below by Travel HDefinition.
After visiting the cloisters I left the cathedral and made my way back out into the Plaça Nova where a crowd had gathered to watch a couple dancing the Argentine Tango. Looking down on them from the Catalonia Architects College is a famous frieze by Pablo Picasso. I’m not a great Picasso fan myself, and this particular work of art reminded me why (sorry Valencia Artist), but this was still a fabulous way to enjoy a sunny Sunday morning in Barcelona.
I couldn’t afford to stay here all morning, and so I left the Plaça Nova by way of Carrer del Bisbe and under the Pont del Bisbe (Bishop’s Bridge) which connects the House of the Canons with the Palace of the Catalan Government. Apparently, it’s the most photographed bridge in Barcelona, but I wonder how many people know that it wasn’t constructed until 1928.
The Palace of the Catalan Government however is a genuine example of medieval Barcelona. I didn’t go in, but apparently there are several Gothic features worth checking out if you get the opportunity, and even the exterior in Plaça de Sant Jaume was constructed during the Renaissance period. What’s more (and I’ve only just found this out), the four dark granite columns flanking the main entrance were originally sculpted in Troy and brought to Tarragona (along with 45 more) for Emperor Hadrian’s visit to that city in 122-123 BC. It seems more than likely that he would have passed through Barcino (Roman Barcelona) on his way, so they’re not entirely out of place here.
I must confess that my decision to visit Barcelona was taken on the spur of the moment and I hadn’t really delved into its past history too much because that wasn’t the real reason I wanted to come here, but I was already getting a feeling that Roman Barcelona was going to be an unexpected bonus, and as Plaça del Rei (King’s Square) with its underground Roman ruins wasn’t too far away, it seemed the obvious place to head for next.
The extensive Roman ruins are part of the Museum of the History of Barcelona (MUHBA) which also includes the Royal Palace and Royal Chapel of St Agatha. Entry is via the Casa Padellas which was moved here brick by brick during the 1930s to make room for the Via Laietana, and it was while the medieval house was being rebuilt, that the underground streets of Barcino were discovered. It really is worth a visit, but don’t just take my word for it, take a look at the video below which will explain things much better than I can.
There’s no doubt that a quiet Sunday morning is a good time to wander through the Barri Gòtic, but there was much more I wanted to see today, and so it was time to make tracks towards my next destination – Citadel Park. To get there from the Plaça del Rei I crossed the Via Laietana into the El Born district and down Carrera Montcada, probably Barcelona’s most famous medieval street, and where a queue had already formed waiting for the Picasso Museum to open.
Instead of joining them, I continued on down to the Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar where I was able to have a quick look inside Barcelona’s favourite church, and in a way I think I could see why it is. Built in the 14th century, this huge Gothic style church (which was difficult to photograph both inside and out), had an unusual feeling of grand austerity about it, and yet was simple enough to cater for the local sea-faring community.
After coming out of the church I wasn’t quite sure which was the best way to get to Citadel Park, somewhere I could take a break, clear my head, and decide on what I was going to do next.
Caruso by Julio Iglesias
POSTED – MAY 2025
Originally posted 2025-05-26 16:38:18.
Brick by brick! That was quite an undertaking, Malc. Who knew there was so much of Ancient Rome under Barcelona.
Sounds like this is hello and goodbye? You hinted before that your interest in blogging was waning. Hopefully you have another writing project. Whatever the plan, take care of yourself xx
I’ve taken a break for a while Jo but I’m back now with a clearer head, so you haven’t got rid of me just yet 🙂
I was confused by the comments, Malc, but I knew I hadn’t seen you in my Reader for a while. Welcome back! xx
Thanks Jo. I’ll be back checking out your posts again as well.
No hurry, darlin! Enjoy your weekend xx
Thanks Jo. You too!
“I really enjoyed this walk through the Gothic Quarter. The balance between curiosity and gentle humour makes it feel like I’m tagging along, not just reading.
Great! Thank you so much for your lovely comment. I really appreciate it.
My pleasure. Have a nice weekend 🙂
Thanks. You too of course.
You’ve shown me many Barcelona sights that we missed in our brief visit years ago! Thank you for the virtual tour 😃
Thanks Sarah. Are you writing this comment from Sicily by the way?
I am, but off to Malta tomorrow!
Well Malc… You have excelled yourself here. I feel prompted to say…. you devil you…..
I thought it was the best way to let people know that I won’t be around for a while without shouting it from the rooftops. A bit too subtle for some perhaps – but that’s the Englishman coming out in me.
Well I’m a Scot… I am a lot of thing sactually, so i should say ‘mainly a ‘ I get a lot of things.’ We will keep in touch.
LOL. Of course we will Shey.
Sounds like, late start or not, a phenomenal Sunday in Barcelona!
Yes it was Francesc – and there was the afternoon and evening still yet to come. Like I said to Luisa, I’m taking a break from all things WordPress but I don’t know for how long, so I apologize in advance for not checking out your pages, but I hope you have a great time in Turkey.
Thank you Malc. I understand. My presence will also be diminished as I am getting ready for a show and I have to do some other things as well. Take good care and stay in touch. All the best.
Thanks for your understanding F. I will pop back every so often to see how my friends are doing. You take care as well and good luck with your forthcoming projects.
All the best Malc!
You too my friend!
Some interesting buildings with interesting history here. I’m with you on the Picasso thing, that frieze looks like it’s been done by a primary school child. I particularly like the last shot though, that looks like a really nice place for a wander or chill out, and the architecture of the arch is lovely.
That’s where I’m heading next Eunice, but what happens on the other side of that arch is still uncertain.
A treasure trove of information and experiences in your post, dear Malc.
Since I have never visited Barcelona (postponing the visit to another occasion, since “it is not so far from Italy”, I told myself) I am virtually travelling with you and I find it extremely pleasant.
Thank you Luisa. I’ve always enjoyed your company as a virtual companion on my travels, but as you are an expert with words I wonder if you can see the ambiguity in the last sentence.
In my last sentence???
Did I say something inappropriate?🤔🤔🤔
No not at all. I was referring to the last sentence of my post 💙
I’m going to take a break from all things WordPress, but for how long I have no idea at the moment luisa.
Thanks for letting me know, dearest Malc, so I won’t have to worry about your absence.
I’ll be away for about ten days too because I’m going to the seaside, in Calabria, Southern Italy
I’m going to be absent for quite a while luisa, but I hope you have a wonderful time in a part of Italy I’ve never been to but always wanted to xx
Will you be away for a while? I hope it’s for pleasant reasons. but I know I’ll miss you 💞
Ah! I’ll explain when you return from Calabria. Just enjoy your hoiliday my lovely 💙
Thank you again, dear Malc
Take care of yourself 💙
You too Luisa 💙
Made good use of your later start, Malc.
I like to think so Pat!