Barcelona - Las Ramblas
Before I get going, I think it’s worth mentioning the fact that, unlike Manuel in Fawlty Towers, I’m not from Barcelona, and therefore this series of posts about the city is based purely on my experience over a long weekend back in the spring of 2006. Consequently, I won’t be going into too much detail about its history etc (which can easily be found elsewhere), but instead I’ll just talk about some of the places I visited and what I encountered.
Quiero Saber – The Gipsy Kings
Ask anyone to name the most famous street in Barcelona and you can bet the majority would say The Rambla, but in actual fact the street has several parts to it which is why I’m calling it, like many others do, Las Ramblas. That’s the Spanish way of spelling it, but as we’re in Catalonia, we should really be referring to it as Les Rambles, but whatever you want to call it, this was my base for 3 nights, and is why I’m beginning right here.
Until the beginning of the 18th century Las Ramblas was just a path that followed the course of an old stream just outside the city walls, but today it consists of 5 different Ramblas that make up a largely pedestrianized tree-lined avenue that runs for about ¾ mile between the Plaça de Catalunya in the north to the Christopher Columbus Monument and port in the south.
The northernmost Rambla is the Rambla de Canaletes which gets its name from the modest-looking Canaletes Fountain. It’s located just a stone’s throw away from where I was staying, and is where Barcelona football fans congregate when celebrating one of their frequent successes. When I arrived on a Saturday evening in May there was a large police presence in case of any trouble – and for good reason. Two weeks previously, the club was crowned La Liga champions, making them the top team in Spain, and their celebrations resulted in 40 arrests, over a hundred injuries, and thousands of Euros worth of damage to local businesses, and it didn’t end there. Three days before I arrived, they became the top team in Europe after beating Arsenal 2-1 in Paris to win the UEFA Champions League Cup, and it all kicked off again – and this is what happens when they win. My first suggestion therefore, if you’re thinking of staying in Las Ramblas, is to check out the Barcelona Football Club fixtures before booking a hotel here.
While I’m about it I may as well give you another reason not to come to Barcelona if you’re looking for a quiet life – pickpockets. I knew that it had a bad reputation before I came, but I never expected to see evidence of it as soon as I stepped outside the hotel. In a nearby rubbish bin was a wallet with all its contents missing, and I’m pretty sure it wasn’t because somebody had just bought a new one. In a local newspaper I later read that there were, on average, 222 robbery complaints in the city each day, and although not all of them would have occurred in Las Ramblas, it was definitely a hotspot for this kind of unwelcome activity. Latest reports suggest that the problem still exists, so my next tip is to make sure that you keep an eye on your personal belongings, especially in crowded places.
You must be wondering why tourists would even consider coming here at all with what I’ve said so far, but they come because it’s one of Europe’s most exciting cities. It all depends what excites you of course, but there’s something here for people of all ages, and it wasn’t just discarded wallets I found outside the hotel, but also the first of many forms of street entertainment.
Leading on from Rambla de Canaletes is the Rambla dels Estudis, site of the former Jesuit University, hence its name, but the only reminder from that period is the Church of Bethlehem, which has needed several re-incarnations since its original consecration in 1555.
In more recent times, this section of the avenue became unofficially known as the ‘Rambla dels Ocells’, or Rambla of the Birds, partly because of the number of sparrows that nest in the trees here, but mainly because of the number of bird-sellers that operated from an open-air market. When I was growing up, it was common practice to own a pet bird, but attitudes have changed a lot since then, and although the Ramblas bird market was still going strong in 2006, it was forced to close down 4 years later when animal protection laws were introduced.
For me the heart of the Ramblas is the Rambla de les Flors which begins just across the road from the Church of Bethlehem. The name gives the game away about what people wander down here for, but they also come here for the Boqueria Market, considered to be the city’s finest, and trust me when I say that it’s not difficult to spend more time (and money) than you should in here, and so my next tip has to be not to come in here if you’re feeling hungry.
Just down from the market in the centre of the Rambla (officially the Rambla de Sant Josep) is the Plaça de la Boqueria with its Joan Miro mosaic, Pla de l’Os. Joan Miro is an artist from Barcelona, and although his work may not appeal to everyone, for me his bright colours seem to represent the Spanish way of life, with its blue skies, yellow sandy beaches, and orange and red sunsets. It’s not easy to appreciate what I’m talking about on a mosaic where thousands of feet walk over it every day, but it’s typical of his work.
If surrealist art doesn’t capture your imagination, then perhaps Barcelona’s amazing flamboyant architecture will; and on one corner of the square is a building affectionatley known as the House of Umbrellas, which doesn’t just have a collection of cast iron parasols and fans adorning the wall, but a chinese dragon as well!
Continuing on down from the Plaça de la Boqueria brings us into the Rambla dels Caputxins which takes its name from a former Franciscan Capuchin monastery. There are no monks here now as the site is occupied by the Plaça Real (Royal Square), where instead of a refectory, there are a mixture of restaurants, cocktail bars and night-clubs. As it was still daytime, I opted to chill out near the Liceu Opera House on the rambla itself amongst the cafés, kiosks – and clowns. The clown in question kept me amused for ages as he wandered up and down doing things behind people’s backs, who if they’d known what was going on, probably wouldn’t have been as amused as I was – but that’s the Ramblas for you.
The 5th and final Rambla (that’s if you exclude the Rambla de Mar) is the Rambla de Santa Monica. Named after the Santa Monica convent, it has traditionally been the seedy end of the avenue, and where the street entertainment becomes even less sophisticated. For example, there was an ‘Arabic gentleman’ whose performance included smoking, drinking wine, eating glass and swallowing razor blades all at the same time. He should really have been using the razor blades for their intended purpose as he could have done with a shave, and a haircut wouldn’t have gone amiss either. As for his teeth, the least said about them the better.
The Rambla ends at the Columbus Monument and the port area, which is not so much a port these days, as a marina and modern waterfront, but I’ll be covering this part of the city in a separate post.
The Ramblas are without doubt a bustling, dynamic, and vibrant introduction to this amazing city, and if you haven’t lost your wallet on the way down, then you might want to join me for the next Barcelona post which will cover the historical core of the old city – the Barri Gotic, or Gothic Quarter.
POSTED – MAY 2025
Originally posted 2025-05-10 15:45:38.
I was trying to remember which ‘special’ birthday I spent in Barcelona, Malc, and I can’t be sure but it was a good few years ago. I liked it then, especially the harbour and the many Gaudi and Art Deco sites. I’m not tempted to go back. Better remember it as it was xx
The world is in a constant state of flux isn’t it Jo? We can’t change the past, but we can at least cherry-pick the memories that gave us the most pleasure, and as you say, Barcelona was great back then. 😊
Great post, but did you have to bring up the 2-1 victory over the Mighty Arsenal?
Ha Ha! Sorry Stephen, but a Bristol City supporter can’t say much after this weekend’s abysmal attempt to get into the Premiership 🙁
Fingers crossed for next season, and perhaps a little more investment!
One part of me says that I’m glad that my club doesn’t get too involved in spending money like confetti to buy success, but there’s another part of me that says a lack of positive activity in the transfer market also holds us back.
I believe Bristol deserves a premiership club. If Bournemouth can, Bristol can.
Absolutely!
Enjoyed your ramble along Las Ramblas.
I can ramble for England Pat, and I’m not talking about walking now ☺️
Oh, what a fab armchair trip this is. I just love the commentary….plenty to chuckle over… .. And no tourists to wade through either….
Thank you Shey. I enjoyed the buzz of Barcelona at the time, but it’s become a bit too popular now. I hope the grandee’s on the mend by the way.
Well finally after many years, and my younger girl sitting all day at the hospital saying she was not budging until she saw a consultant–alarmingly this is what we seem as a country to be reduced to when he has twice been in hsopital recently unable to walk and she was told the last time she’d just have to get on with it… , she did get to see one. It was at 11 at night her having sat all day but I think she finally saw the right consultant. The one I said years ago she needed come across, that would know whatever this is instantly–cos it is a rare condition. So there’s been a ton of tests done and they are now waiting for an MRI scan…another thing there’s a queue for here.. to determine muscle damage.
PS… I know what you mean re popularity. We have said before there’s a fine line.
There aren’t any words to describe what our country has become Shey. How is the poor chap anyway? – and your daughter for that matter.
I thought I ‘d miss not being able to travel anymore, but it’s been easier than I expected.
Re the latter I can believe it actually, the way some places are. The wee guy is a brave boy. He really is. His mum and dad are taking him to the cup final this weekend as a special surprise early b/day pressie, so he’s dead excited re that. They’ve got it all planned out. He’s also set up his own wee gaming tips channel on youtube. Despite being very athletic he does love gaming. So that has aken his mind off things.
Good for him! I hope he and the family have a great time. Who is he rooting for? Celtic or Aberdeen?
Oh ho ho ho… here’s the surprise It’s 5.30 kick off at Wembley….
I thought it was at Hampden on the 24th. My mind’s all over the place at the moment so I could be wrong.
No. They are going down south for the Emglish cup final. Wee fellah is on crutches she got today as a matter of some emergency from a friend whose man is a physio therapist after the wee guy was sen home from school unable to walki and she contacted Ryan air re priority boarding. Meantime we are taking the wee bro for the 2 days after which we may be on crutches ourselves.
I see. Let’s hope they have a great weekend – and I hope you survive it too 😊
It is a birthday special given all the things lately….but they’ve had to kind of wrap him in cotton wool so that knee does not even get the slightes knock or they won’t be able to do it. I am hoping we survive too. The wee bros is kind of wild…..
🤞🤞
The only time I was in Barcelona was for a football match in the 1990s, when Newcastle lost to Barça in the Champions League. There was no trouble then, that I saw, but the match finished late so we didn’t spend time on Las Ramblas afterwards but instead drank and ate in a tapas bar near our hotel. Before the game however Newcastle fans started a mad kick-around in Plaça Real which some locals joined in with too – great atmosphere 🙂
Incidentally, 300,000 Newcastle fans attended the celebratory open bus parade and party in the city after winning the League Cup and there was apparently just one arrest, for a minor public order offence!
And he was probably a Mackem 😊The sniff we had this season of making it into the Premiership was well and truly put out on Thursday. I know we wouldn’t last in the top flight, but the money would have been welcome.
There’s always next year!
Thank you for sharing this wonderful post, which made me visit an interesting part of Barcelona.
You know what? I’ve never been there. With the excuse that it was easily reachable from Italy, sometimes I chose more distant destinations and the result is that I don’t know it at all except through the stories of those who have been there.💖
We can’t visit everywhere Luisa, but it’s always good to find out about places from other people. You’ve been to places I’ve only ever dreamed of, and what’s more, you’ve described them, and the people that have lived there, in a way that I could never do.💙
Thank you so much for your kind (and comforting) words!
Have a great weekend, dear Malc 💖
Thanks Luisa. You too! 💙
I’ve heard about Las Ramblas from several people in the past and as I’m never likely to go to Spain I enjoyed reading this mini travel guide. I like the Chinese dragon and I could quite happily spend some time in that food market. I don’t agree with keeping birds in cages unless they are sick or injured so it’s good to know that the bird market was closed down. I’ve just recently put a bird bath and bird table in my back garden and as I sit here at the pc I can watch the free flying little birds coming to visit.
Thanks Eunice. Barcelona is an exceptional city, and I totally agree with you that watching birds in the back garden is far more preferable to keeping them in cages.
Actually my favourite city in Spain for sure, and las Ramblas were a place of enjoyment and good food and many flowers and birds being sold as well as an incredible amount of human statues including the despicable Che Guevara. But now it has changed a lot, not such a pleasant place for me anymore. Not too many human statues, many pickpockets and lots of guiris (tourists), not that I dislike guiris, but when they overwhelm the population then no one can really enjoy what is there to be seen. But I love the end/beginning at the statue of Colon pointing, not to the west, but to the east… Cheers Malc, another phenomenal post!
I’ve discussed the problem of over-tourism on many occasions F and it really is a shame how places like Barcelona have fallen foul of it because I really liked the city. It has so much to offer, but something needs to be done to keep it a place that is acceptable for both locals and visitors alike.
So true Malc, it’s happening here in València now. Funny how these things didn’t happen before… cities are changing. I was in Madrid a few days ago and you could not even walk down La Gran Via!
They may not all be tourists Francesc. So many people are deserting the UK (and probably other countries too) for places like Spain now.
Oh yes, we are getting expats from the UK and US daily! I live in a very mixed neighbourhood and when I walk out my door I hear more foreign languages than I do Spanish! València has gotten very popular and for us getting more and more expensive…