Stonehenge
I don’t think I’m wrong when I say that Stonehenge is one of those places that sits high on many people’s list of life’s big disappointments, but with the right mental attitude and a bit of forward planning it can still be somewhere that you’ll be glad to say you’ve seen.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site lies about nine miles north of Salisbury and can be reached by the useful ‘Stonehenge Tour Bus’ which does a circuit between the city, Old Sarum, and Stonehenge.
(http://www.thestonehengetour.info/)
The first obvious detraction from this iconic site is its proximity to the main A303 trunk road which has been constantly debated about ever since I can remember.
Not so long ago the A360 road to Devizes and the inadequate visitor centre were also bones of contention, but were both rectified by the closure of the road and the re-positioning of a new modern visitor centre 1½ miles away.
The new visitor centre has all the facilities you would expect, including an exhibition with artefacts on loan from the museums in Salisbury and Devizes and a re-creation of some Neolithic huts – but I’m still not convinced about the centre’s design if I’m honest.
This is also where you buy your tickets if you haven’t already pre-booked them. English Heritage and the National Trust jointly manage the site on behalf of the Crown, and to try and offset the problem of too many visitors arriving at the same time, people are encouraged to book a time-slot. The web site makes it sound imperative, but in reality, out of season at least, it’s not necessarily the case.
The website also says that last admission is 2 hours before closure, but I think it depends on the circumstances whether that’s enforced or not. It wasn’t when I was here last.
You can walk from the Visitor Centre to the ‘Stones’ if you like but a shuttle bus service constantly transports people back and forth to make life easier.
Long gone are the days when people were able to freely walk among the stones. As the numbers of tourists increased then I suppose it was inevitable that things would have to change, but what really changed it all was the Hippy gatherings at the Summer Solstice which occurred each June from 1972 to 1984. Known as the Stonehenge Free Festival it attracted thousands of ‘Hippies’ from far and wide and often ended up in chaos, and so in 1985 the barriers went up – and stayed up.
To describe Stonehenge in detail requires an expert, but basically it’s a large prehistoric stone circle that grew from a simple circular ditch and earth bank into four sets of stones – two circles and two in a horseshoe shape. The larger stones are known as Sarsen stones and found in the Stonehenge and Marlborough Downs area, but the smaller stones known as Blue Stones were transported from the Preseli Hills in Wales – but what makes this circle so different from any other is the lintels that cap the Sarsen stones.
As regards the question as to when Stonehenge was built, it’s widely regarded that the first enclosure was constructed sometime between 3,000 and 2,900 BC. Carbon dating suggests that the first Sarsen stones were set around 2,500 BC and the final Bluestone settings around 2,300-2,000BC.
So how was this circle constructed? This is one of the most fascinating aspects of the Stonehenge conundrum. The early ditch was dug using things like deer antlers, and you can see some of the ones that were found here in the exhibition at the Visitor Centre. There’s a possibility that a wood henge was constructed here before the arrival of the stones, but there’s been no conclusive evidence as far as I can tell. The real intrigue of course, is how these stones were brought here and manhandled into position, especially those from Preseli. There’s a host of theories about how this could have happened, or whether indeed it did at all, but the evidence seems to point to the possibility of the stones from Wales being transported by water for at least part of their journey.
The most baffling question of all is why was it built? This wasn’t a place where our ancestors lived, but it was more than likely to have been a place where they were buried, and experts believe that the alignment of the stones have given it a more spiritual reason for being here.
It has to be remembered that Stonehenge is only one of many prehistoric remains in this area. ‘The Avenue’ leads from the River Avon to the stone circle and meets up with it at the ’Heel Stone’. The axis of Stonehenge runs in a deliberate south-west/north east direction so that it can determine the movements of the sun. On the longest day of the year the sun rises behind the Heel Stone and shines its rays into the heart of the stone circle. This Summer Solstice is an annual event for many different people who regard this phenomenon as a spiritual meaning. For a long time it was believed that the Druids were responsible for building Stonehenge, and even though it’s unlikely, there are still a number of modern day Druids who regard this event as the highlight of their calendar year. It has to be pointed out though that the same phenomenon also occurs in mid -winter, and is just as likely, if not more so, that it could have been more significant for the people who built it.
Zillions of words have been written by historians, archaeologists, astronomers, and others who still haven’t reached any real conclusion about the need to build this monument on Salisbury Plain, and that is one of the reasons why the mystery of these stones have captured the imagination of so many people for so long.
It’s understandable why so many people have been fascinated by Stonehenge and why so many people want to come and see it, and therefore it’s important to try and come here at a time when you can still ‘feel’ something.
I’ve been here first thing on a winter’s morning when the site’s just opening up, but it’s also possible to book a Stone Circle Access out of hours visit for an extra cost.
The solstice and equinox dates allow free access I believe, but I’ve not been here at those times myself, which I would like to even if there are plenty of other people around.
The site is open every day (except Christmas Eve and Christmas Day) but times vary throughout the season.
There’s no doubt, that if you’re able to be here at the right time it will be a much better experience, but whether you’ll be able to catch a sunrise or sunset, or even be able to see the sun at all is another matter altogether.
Originally posted 2018-08-26 08:12:28.
It’s amazing. Especially when you consider how the hell they got the stones there and all these other things.
You’re absolutely right. It’s a real shame that many people are underwhelmed by the Stonehenge experience, but it has to be said that with so many people wanting to see what it’s all about, we are part of the problem. I’ve been a few times, and the last time, I was first in, and that made a real difference.
I know some places are ‘over touristed.’ I’d cite the centre of Edinbrugh in the summer as one. I know that that is very diff from Stonehenge but the principle is the same. And I would think taht with Stonehenge there’s this whole anticipation.
Part of the attraction of Edinburgh is the buzz, and as you say, especially around the time of the festival and military tattoo. The Stonehenge experience should be more spiritual. It is after all, in an open landscape except for the adjacent road system which have been a source of contention for as long as I can remember.
Abso. And yeah I have heard re the road. If it was some rough path spread over miles mind you, some folks would be moaning on Tripadvisor about that. The thing with Edinburgh now though at Festival time is it is deeply unpleasant with very little buzz. People are endlessly crammed like can hardly move to get over the road at Princes St and in that entire area round the station and up onto the Cowgate. There’s ahuge amount of A b & B’s and folks coming off of trains and trying to trundle cases to them in this mayhem. It’s filthy dirty. So’s the amenities in pubs. Acts are playing to one person cos they allow so many and the cost of everything, including tickets is prohibitive. We didn’t go through for the Mardoii Gras opener to the Music Fest this year, we jsut thought…we will pass.
You don’t surprise me I’m sorry to say. On a much smaller scale, down here in South Devon on New Year’s Eve we you used to have a fantstic time with everyone going out dressed up in all sorts of costumes. Everyone knew each other and it was an absolute hoot – and then the coach parties started turning up. It’s now a distant memory, but a good one at that.
yeah. We are going through for the Mr’s b/day to do Arthur’s Seat, but only cos the Fest will be over. As with what you talk about, it is all such a shame. My friend from school lives in Edinburgh with her hubby, has done for just about ever and they would come here to live. if they didn’t have their family, and grandchildren there. They were here for a night there and they just loved being out in the Fery pubs. We couldn’t get in the door of the one that was having music fest so like that we sat outside another down on the river and ended up haivng this hysterical sing song of ‘Hole in My Shoe,’ when for some reason the vague memory of it came up in our conversation but initially my Mr couldn’t remember it. But my pal’s man minded the first verse lyric wise, not the tune. SO I’m sitting there doing the goes like this opening bit and suddenly everyone sitting out there was joining in, chipping in a line. Just nice to have that kind of daft banter between strangers which we get a lot of here. I’d hate to think of losing that.
That’s right. Some things are priceless, and when you think of what concert ticket prices can be these days.
I know. The other pub’s music fest was free. They run it every year. Last year, we went down and met a couple we know and were astonished they had a table with seats for all of us. I mean truly we could not believe it. At the end of the night she produced the big reserved for 4 30 notice her and her man, coming in at 3 30 and asking if they could sit for one drink only, soon removed. I still have it. But honest that wee song on Sat was priceless. The best bit is then we all just went to talking to who we were with. But we did all say, ‘ Who needs in the Fort? We’re better than any band.’
Great stuff!
Super photos of the stones! I haven’t been since I was a child, back when it was possible to walk among them. Now they’ve moved the road (one of them) and visitor centre I could be tempted to go back.
As you know only too well Sarah, timing is all important at places like this