Wandering Around Brest - Pt 4 Recouvrance
I’ve had a change of heart: I was going to make this my final post about Brest, but I’ve now decided to break it up into two smaller ones, as Recouvrance and the City Centre are quite different from each other – and always have been.
Being on opposite sides of the Penfeld River, both communities grew up with separate identities: Recouvrance, for example, was Breton-speaking while Brest spoke French, and even though the former was annexed by Brest in 1680, it still retains its own independent character.
Recouvrance, it has to be said, might not be on everyone’s list of places to visit, in fact probably very few, but I was keen to see how it compared to Plymouth’s Devonport and so after leaving the Chateau and Maritime Museum I wandered through the Jardin de Gaulle towards the Recouvrance Bridge.
Some of you will already know that I have a liking for bridges: Don’t ask me why – I just do, but for some reason I’m not sure about this one. It’s what’s known as a Vertical Lift Bridge, which when it opened in 1954, was the largest one of its kind in Europe – and that’s probably the reason I’m not over-keen on it. It just looks too big for its surroundings, but in defence of those who agreed to its construction, it’s probably far more practical than the swing bridge that it replaced after the Allied bombing in 1944.
This swing bridge, initially called the Imperial Bridge (after it was authorized by Napoleon III), was the first permanent crossing between Brest and Recouvrance after it replaced the ferry in 1861. Below is a picture of how it looked when it was operating, and another one after it was destroyed by Allied bombing in 1944.
Once over the bridge, it was just a short walk to the Tour Tanguy, the only historic building of any consequence – other than the castle – to survive into the 21st century.
Although the origins of the tower are not entirely clear, it was probably built during the War of the Breton Succession in the 14th century, possibly to protect or block crossings between the two banks of the river. Other than that, there’s not a great deal to say about its history except that the tower ultimately passed into private hands until it too was damaged by allied bombing in 1944.
After the war ended, the city had a massive rebuilding job to do, not just in the city centre, but also (to a lesser extent) in Recouvrance as well. The ramparts and old buildings of Recouvrance were lost and it would have been easier to have knocked the tower down and start again with a blank canvas. Fortunately though, the authorities saw it as an asset, and after acquiring and repairing it, commissioned the painter, Jim Sévellec to create some dioramas in preparation for the official opening of the tower on 25th July 1962 as the Museum of Old Brest. In 1971 a turret was added to restore the tower to its original medieval appearance and has become a city landmark ever since.
The presence of the naval base means that access to the mouth of the river is restricted, but on the site of the historic Cavalier Battery is the Jardin des Explorateurs, home to a collection of plant species brought back from all four corners of the globe by explorers and botanists who set off from Brest. It’s not a huge garden but it incorporates a belvedere footbridge that offers fabulous views across the mouth of the river to the chateau and beyond.
As far as walking the streets of Recouvrance was concerned, I was more interested in seeking out the parts which had survived WWII rather than those that had been rebuilt since, and so I made my way up Rue Vauban to Rue de Pontaniou, a hilly street that must have been typical of this working-class district before the bombing.
One thing I should mention before I go any further is that if anyone follows my walks on Google maps you’ll find the satellite layer of the area around the naval base is pixelated. You can’t blame them for that as I’ve often wondered why we allow satellite images of places like Devonport when naval ports are obviously sensitive areas where security is concerned.
Anyway, after walking for a few minutes down Rue de Pontaniou I heard screams coming from one of the four storey buildings. At first I didn’t take too much notice, but as the screams got louder and louder I got more and more concerned. It honestly sounded as though someone was being murdered and I wasn’t quite sure what to do. I spotted a bar nearby and thought I would pop in there and let somebody know what was happening. I needed a drink anyway, but the bar wasn’t open, and in fact looked as though it was closed for good, but by then the screaming had suddenly stopped, and so the disagreement had either been sorted or somebody was dead. Whatever, there wasn’t much I could do, and so I carried on.
Over on the right-hand side of the road behind a wall is an area that serviced the naval complex on the Penfeld River below. I didn’t walk to the end of the Rue de Pontaniou where the Capuchin workshops were, as I intended to take a route that came back that way. Instead, I turned off up Rue Pierre Ozanne as far as the Rue de la Source where I had a half decent glimpse of the former Maritime Prison. It’s had a fascinating history including a time when it was used as a house of correction for “girls known to have dealings with sailors and soldiers”. It was in a sorry state when I was here and several plans have been put forward since. If ever they bring it back into good use (like they have at Bodmin Gaol) I reckon it could be worthy of a separate visit.
Half way up Rue de la Source I turned right into Rue Rochon and then right again into Rue St Malo. I didn’t know what to make of it at first as I was greeted with a mixture of street art and graffiti. There’s a big difference as far as I’m concerned, and as I started to walk down this no-through road I wasn’t sure whether I was walking into a hippy commune or a ghetto.
All of a sudden I heard someone charging up behind me. Bloody Hell! When I turned around it was just a dog chasing his ball. Why can’t people keep their dogs on a lead for Christ’s sake ? – Buzzards! I have an irregular heartbeat as it is.
Most of the houses down this end of the street were derelict, but there was one place that looked as though it could have been a café with a colourful table and chairs outside – but then maybe not.
According to my map it looked as there were some steps at the end of the street which I could use to find my way back up to the Capuchin Workshops in Rue de Pontaniou, but when I got there I was confronted by about 8 or 9 dubious characters lounging around on the steps: I had a decision to make – do I say “excusez-moi s’il vous plaît messieurs” or turn around and go back the way I just came. Well, what would you do? Exactly! I went back. Fortunately, I didn’t hear anyone charging up behind me this time.
It was time to head back across the river to the city centre where my heart could have a chance to recover. I wasn’t expecting to do or see much of any consequence in the city centre, but it didn’t quite turn out that way, so please join me for what I promise to be my final post on Brest.
POSTED – JULY 2024
Originally posted 2024-07-15 14:56:18.
Well that was a different type of experience, Malc! Do you wish you’d stayed on the Brest side? Still, it’s always interesting to see some of the less well-trodden tourist paths, and this is certainly that. I do like the look of The Tour Tanguy though. Glad they restored it as it looks good against the backdrop of the Chateau, and it adds some historical context. Is it still a museum? Hope your heart calmed down once you got back over the bridge, poor you. One of your more hair-raising wanders then! :-0
Variety is the spice of life as they say Alli, and I may not have written about too many places that are off the beaten tourist path as such, but I do enjoy seeking out the less than obvious destinations. As for the Tanguy Tower, as far as I know it’s still a museum and I did visit it while I was there. I can’t remember too much about it really except to say that it probably appealed more to French people than anyone else. Still, it’s certainly an impressive landmark that’s for sure. The Brest side of the river did bring my heart beat down – at least for a while 😊
The Tanguy Tower certainly is an impressive landmark, although I’d have to admit I’d be more interested in exploring the interior of the building than the museum itself. 😉
I know you like getting off the beaten tourist path, and I always enjoy reading about your lesser known destinations. Still, you did get a bit more than you bargained for this time, and I’m glad the ticker settled down once you were back on the other side. 🙂
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Well, despite it not being the best known place, or indeed many other things, I liked your tour because you found things there that might not make it into an official guide book but gave a great flavour of the area all the same. I also had asmile at that arguement cos I mind one evening decades ago, walking down the then less that salubrious Lilybank Road here and suddenly in the middle of some screaming row, a window flew open in this old tenemant all these unopened food tins came flying out, narrowly misssing everyone.
Thanks Shey. The episode of those tins flying out the tenement window reminds me of an episode a bit closer to home, but I’ll leave it there for now 🤪
I ask no questions I get no lies told…..
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I guess Recouvrance is sort of the Gateshead to Brest’s Newcastle?!! It has its merits, I see, including the views from that Belvedere and some good street art. We’ll never know what would have happened had you carried on with your walk, but maybe that’s a good thing 😆
Being on opposite sides of the river is where the similarities end really Sarah, but there were similarities with Devonport. As regards continuing to wander around dodgy territory, I’ve had enough experience to know when to call it a day – or at least should have. 😊
Another very informative posting. For the record, “Recouvrance (on the left bank of the river) and Brest (on the right) in 1779 (Swedish Military Archives)” would helpfully say “on the left in the illustration …” etc and not ldft bank as Recouvrance is in fact on the right bank! Small point though.
Thanks Adrian and you’re absolutely right. I actually altered the caption at the last minute and meant to say exactly that. I’ll change it forthwith. Fancy becoming my proof reader? 😊
It’s not the prettiest bridge, is it, but functional! The Tower looks great, standing there with a view of the river and Chateau. Brest wasn’t ever on my list, Malc, but like many places it has its attractions. I’m currently reading a novel involving the aftermath of the First World War in Northern France and the devastation, to both property and lives, was horrific.
Like anyone else Jo, I enjoy visiting places that have an automatic appeal, but I also enjoy visiting places that haven’t, and that includes the WWI Battlefields in Northern France. Places like that are very sobering, but you might enjoy my next post a bit more as it’s a bit closer to home for you, and probably somewhere you know better than I do.
I can understand your fascination for bridges, as most are feats of genius engineering. Plus, they have made the lives of those who live there assess other parts of the city with ease. Brittany is such an undervalued part of France, we enjoyed the area. Enjoyable post, Malc.
Thanks Suzanne and I’m glad that it’s brought back some fond memories of Brittany for you.
Good job, Malc.
Thanks Pat.
Amazing photos!!
Thank you GP. Your comment is very much appreciated and I’m glad you enjoyed them
Great post and gorgeous images!
Thanks Luisa. I’m glad that your summer vacation doesn’t preclude you from taking a peek at Easymalc’s Wanderings occasionally 😎
I like the Tour Tanguy and the castle. Interesting article Malc, good show my friend.
Thanks Francesc. Before I come back to Brest for my final post, I might well be down on the Iberian Peninsula first.
Splendid! I am off in the Aegean, Turkey and Greece for the summer. But hopefully one day we should coincide!
That’s doubtful now Francesc as my travelling days are over. Have a great time in the Aegean.
Thank you Malc.
Thank you, Malc, for your surprising adventures on account of the place we didn’t expect to be interesting, and then your heart. It just shows how wrong you can be! Your lesson on the historical background was fascinating, and including the recent time additions to this part of the country, was a clever idea as it kept our attention switched on. I liked The Jardin des Explorateurs because bringing the plants from all over the world warranty the visit! I wouldn’t wander into suspicious looking streets either! Your colorful language and extraordinary photography made this post unmissable, as all your posts, Malc, always are!
Joanna
Thank you so much Joanna. Your comments are always such a pleasure to read 😊I admit that my posts don’t have a consistent theme, but as you can probably gather I don’t always follow the well worn path, which is what makes life interesting to me.
By the way, we’ve been following your advice on feeding the slugs and it seems to be working, and while I’m at it, I did respond to your latest post but I’m not sure that you’ve seen it.
Another interesting post with your usual touches of humour and I like the header photo, it looks very pretty. I’m with you on that bridge, it does look too big for its surroundings – shorter supports would make it look much better. The Rue St. Malo looks like a very weird place, I don’t think I would have gone to the end of it either.
Glad you enjoyed it Eunice. I’m not sure whether I did 😊