The Hofburg - Pt 1 Michaelerplatz
It’s impossible to come to Vienna and not get caught up in the history of the Hapsburg dynasty, and it’s not difficult to see why. For hundreds of years, right up until the end of World War I, the family ruled over large swathes of Europe, and for the vast majority of that time it was from here in Vienna – mostly at the Hofburg, or Imperial Winter Palace.
As the Hapsburg’s influence around Europe expanded, then so did the Hofburg, and just as the history of their ‘Empire’ isn’t easy to get to grips with, then neither is the layout of the Hofburg, as it’s taken as long to evolve as the dynasty itself.
There are any number of buildings connected to the complex, but Michaelerplatz is as good a place as any to start, because one side of it is dominated by the Hofburg’s Michaelertrakt (St Michael’s Wing), and by walking through Michaelertor (St Michael’s Gate) you arrive in the heart of it all at the Old Palace Courtyard.
Michaelerplatz is named after St Michael’s church which stands on the opposite side of the square to St Michael’s Gate. Its 18th century Neogothic appearance belies its 13th century origins, and although the mostly plain gothic interior is brightened up by the flamboyant rococo sculpture Fall of the Angels, you won’t want to spend too much time here if you’re keen to see as much of the Hofburg as possible.
Michaelerplatz is more circular than square, and in the middle of it are some Roman remains which were unearthed in the early 1990s. They aren’t extensive, but have been left uncovered for people to see, and although I don’t feel that they add to the visual appeal of the area much, they do at least show that there was life here before the Hapsburgs.
On the corner of Kohlmarkt and Herrengasse is a building that might not seem out of the ordinary in modern Vienna, but when the Loos Haus was built it caused uproar. Before the building was unveiled in 1912, Vienna’s architecture had been predominantly classical, but architect Adolf Loos thought it was time for a change. He might have got away with it had he built it in one of the back streets somewhere, but he chose a location slap bang outside the entrance to Franz Joseph’s Hofburg – and the Emperor was not amused. Protests against “the house without eyebrows” followed and Franz Joseph did everything he could to avoid seeing it, but in the end the dust settled down when Loos added a few eyebrows to it in the form of window boxes.
This short post on Michaelerplatz inevitably ends where the Hofburg begins – at the Michaelertrakt.
The first fortified building was constructed here around 1275 by the Bohemian King, Ottaker II Przemsyl, and the layout has been constantly changing ever since. As far as the entrance to the Old Palace Courtyard is concerned, it became part of the plans when Emperor Charles VI invited the court architect, Johann Lucas von Hildebrand, to submit a new design for rebuilding the palace.
Work started in 1723 on constructing the Imperial Chancellery Wing (where the Imperial Apartments are located), but it was another architect, Joseph Emanuel Fischer von Erlach, who oversaw its completion, and it was the same architect who was responsible for designing the Michaelertrakt. Not only would it serve as an entrance to the Palace, but it would also be able to connect the Imperial Chancellery Wing with the Winter Riding School. Unfortunately, the old Burgtheater (Imperial Court Theatre) stood in the way of completion until Ferdinand Kirschner was able to finish the job in 1893.
At Either end of the Michaelertrakt, Fischer von Erlach had thoughtfully provided two niches which Kirschner filled with marble fountains. One is called Power of the Sea and was created by Rudolf Weyr in 1895, and the other is called Power of the Land by Edmund von Hellmer and installed in 1897.
The fountains aren’t the only sculptures adorning the entrance to the rotunda. Either side of the gateway are four figures representing the four Labours of Hercules and all created by different sculptors – and all in 1893
I’m certainly no Hercules, and Vienna can get rather cold at this time of the year, and so I’m off for a nice warming glass of orange punch. I love orange punch and I love Vienna, and I hope that you’re beginning to love it too because there’s lots more to come – and it’s not all about the Hapsburgs and Johann Strauss.
Originally posted 2022-01-21 19:06:43.
You see…this is what I mean re your style. Wonderfully informative but never too much, always with a little aside, great pics and the promise of more to come.
You really are far too kind Shey, but I’m flattered all the same, especially as you’re so talented yourself
Gosh, if only. Listen I truly find your blogs informative, nicely written and funny, and always with the little touch of something people might do, stop and listen to a band, get a silly pic, or have a glass of punch. They are also as you say, different lengths, some have more pics, and if you have a lot to get through, , that gets broken down into more than one blog.
Obviously I’m happy that you enjoy reading these posts, but, unlike you, I’ve never written a book, so don’t undervalue your acievements ⭐
Now you’re the star.
Touché 😉
I used to fence years ago.
I can actually picture you doing that somehow 🤺
I tried to get the cast doing a bit at Halflins, then I got worried re the audience….
I guessed that the thought would have crossed your mind, and I think you made the right choice in the end 🤺
The mill floor was murder to play on actually, all broken and uneven which was another concern.
Vienna seems to be unfolding nicely on your blog, Malc, with some very impressive sights and architecture. I wouldn’t mind following in your footsteps around this city I’ve wanted to visit for many years, and I particularly love the idea of finishing with an orange punch. Is that peculiar to Vienna? And is it alcoholic or soft? Whatever it is, it sounds the perfect way to end your day’s wanders. 🙂
Hi Alli, it’s always good to hear from you. Your email explains it all, and as it happens, I’ve been taking a break from blogging as well, but for different reasons.
As for Vienna, I’ve been there several times so I must like it – and I do. It regularly comes out as one of the best cities to live in Europe and I can see why, and not just for the Orange punch which isn’t unique to Vienna, but popular at the Austrian Christmas markets. In my opinion it’s a nicer drink than Gluhwein and I reckon if you followed in my footsteps around the markets we wouldn’t get very far 😊
Just realised I’ve answered both comments in one post – oops! Apologies… trying to do too much too quickly again. 🙂
Nevertheless, I have to say that although I really love the idea of orange punch, I did put quite a bit of Gluhwein away while I was in Salzburg many moons ago. I’m rather partial to that too.
Hope your break from blogging is not caused by anything bad, and as you know, I’m always here even if I’m not obviously in the blogsphere. So do keep in touch and let me know how you are. 🙂
I’m fine really Alli, but I thought the break from blogging for a while would do me a favour. Strangely enough, it didn’t – but I’m back now, or will be within a day or so. Your comments always give me a lift, and you can rest assured I’ll be keeping in touch whatever happens. How could I not?
Fascinating post! I loved the details of the statues… and all the rest 🙏💙🙏
Thanks Luisa. I wouldn’t mind betting those sculptors had some Italian influence 🙂
I think so, too 🤗🙏🤗
🙂 💙
Great post Malc! This was very interesting and as usual, you have really illustrated it with your wonderful photography. I’ve never been to Austria but I would love to see these historical places, and when I do I will use your references as guides. Great work!
To say that you would use a post of mine as a guide is a great compliment Francesc. Thank you so much.
Absolutely, they make tremendous guides, with maps included, for sure my friend. All the best to you.
Thanks again Francesc 🙂
My pleasure!
Fascinating, Malc. Such stunning architecture, though I too think the Loos Haus is ugly! I should re-read my university stuff on the Hapsburgs – I think I was more interested in beer and other things at the time. Those are really wonderful photos, by the way!
I’m glad this post has taken you back to your university days Mike, even if it does only remind you of a pint of Hapsburg Pale Ale. Thanks for the smashing comment about the photos 🙂
Wonderfuj article and pictures, Malc. How long does it take you to put such a post like this together?
Thanks for your lovely comments Pat. They really are appreciated.
Obviously, depending on the subject, time spent cross-referencing any research, and general day to day circumstances, will determine how long I spend compiling the post. The photographs are usually already archived, but not always, and on this particular post I’ve had difficulties uploading them thanks to a technology malfunction ☹ I reckon on average I manage to post every couple of weeks or so – but some posts are longer than others 😊
Great photos Malc but I’m with Franz Joseph on this one – the Loos Haus is ugly 🙂
Thanks Eunice. As for the Loos Haus, sometimes a departure from the architectural norm can have the wow factor and at other times it can have the opposite affect. From today’s perspective I think I would prefer to see harmony with the other classical architecture around the square.