The Hofburg - Pt 3 What Else to See
The State Apartments and Treasury may be the logical place to start a tour of the Hofburg, but with so many places to visit in Vienna, you’ll probably want to be economical with both your money and your time looking around the rest of the complex. The Hofburg, as I’ve mentioned before, has grown organically over the centuries, and so I’m going to mention a few other places around the palace that I think you should know about which won’t leave you going around in circles and ‘Hofburg’d out’.
After leaving the Treasury, you should cross over the Swiss Courtyard and pop into the Court Chapel, not because it’s anything special to look at, but because you may be interested to see where the Vienna Boys Choir perform. It’s seen a fair number of changes since Albert I founded it in 1287, and the latest version was created for Maria Theresa during the 18th century. The world famous choir perform here every Sunday morning, but I warn you, they come at a price.
The same thing applies to the Spanish Riding School which is located next to St. Michael’s Gate. If seeing a performance by the majestic Lipizzaner horses and their riders is on your bucket list, then no doubt you’ll find out when they’re in action, and just grit your teeth when handing over your credit card details for the tickets. The prices range from expensive to very expensive.
You can, on the other hand, do what we did instead, and take the much cheaper option of buying a ticket for a tour around the Winter Riding School where the performances take place. The tour also includes a visit across the road to the former Stallburg palace where some of the horses are stabled. Taking photos and smoothing the horses is not allowed, but if you can control yourself it’s a great way of getting up close to these magnificent animals.
Walking through the arch adjacent to the Riding School leads to Josefsplatz with its equestrian statue of Emperor Joseph II in the centre (see featured image at the top of the page). The building at the far end is the Hall of State (Prunksaal), and you know how sometimes your expectations with some places leave you a bit deflated, well the Hall of State had the opposite effect. I wasn’t expecting much as I paid the nominal admission charge to enter what is essentially, a building that is part of the Austrian National Library, but this isn’t just any old building.
Libraries, by their very nature, are all about books, but this isn’t one where you can borrow a volume of the life and times of Ferdinand I or whatever, get it stamped, and bring it back a couple of weeks later. No! This is a large collection of valuable and historic tomes that the public aren’t allowed to get their grubby little hands on. That said, there are display cabinets showing a selection of what can be found in the library archives, but it won’t be the books themselves that will take your breath away, but the Baroque surroundings created by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach for Charles VI in the early 18th century.
You can’t possibly fail to be impressed by the domed ceiling that is emblazoned with fabulous frescos painted by local man, Daniel Gran. Marble columns, floors, and statues of Habsburg rulers compete with the huge bookshelves for your attention, whilst Charles VI himself stands centre stage keeping a watchful eye over his magnificent library.
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- One of the Bookshelves
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- The Library
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- Emperor Charles VI
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- The Dome’s Ceiling
Just around the corner from Josefsplatz is the inconspicuous St Augustine’s Church which could easily be overlooked, but shouldn’t be. Dating from 1327, the church is one of the oldest and most significant in Vienna. From 1634 until 1918, St. Augustine’s was the official Hapsburg Imperial Church, and played host to several celebrated weddings: In 1770 Maria Antonia (Marie Antoinette) married King Louis XVI of France by proxy, which means that the groom wasn’t there. He wasn’t the only one, because Napoleon Bonaparte was also absent from his marriage to the Archduchess Marie Louise in 1810. Franz Stephan at least made the effort to turn up when he married Empress Maria Theresa in 1736, and there was no excuse for Emperor Franz Joseph not to be there, as he only had to pop next door for his wedding to Elisabeth of Bavaria (Sissi) in 1854.
You might not be able to remember who married who here, but I guarantee that you won’t forget the wonderful marble cenotaph to Archduchess Maria Christina (Maria Theresa’s favourite daughter) by the Venetian sculptor, Antonio Canova. Completed in 1805 and commissioned by Maria Christina’s husband Albert, the memorial appears to show a funeral procession entering into the dark abyss of the underworld. What a way to remember a loved one!
If you’re really wondering what the Hapsburg underworld might look like, then I recommend you walk the short distance from St Augustine’s to the Capuchin Church in the Neuer Markt. To get there, cross the road, take the first left, then the first right, and then the next left again. The Capuchin Church is just a few yards away as you approach the Neuer Markt. This rather plain looking 17th century church/monastery would be unremarkable were it not for the Imperial Crypt that lies beneath it.
For the last 400 years, 150 members of the Hapsburg dynasty have been guarded by just a handful Capuchin monks. During that time, the crypt has evolved into 10 separate vaults where 107 sarcophagi (and 5 heart urns) will have you scratching your head as to which Joseph, Ferdinand or Maria’s tomb you’re actually looking at.
Oddly enough, photography is allowed, and below are a few that I took. I kept it to a bare minimum as not only can it be a bit disrespectful, but also there’s a limit to how many tombs I felt the urge to photograph.
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- The Charles Vault
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- Detail from Charles VI’s Sarcophagus
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- Empress Maria Theresa’s Tomb
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- Franz Joseph’s Tomb, with his wife Sissi’s Tomb on the left and his son Rudolp’s Tomb on the right
If the logical place to start a tour of the Hofburg is the State Apartments and Treasury, then the logical place to finish (at least as far as this post is concerned) is at the Albertina. We would have arrived at the Albertina if we had continued walking down Augustinerstrasse from St Augustine’s Church, so after emerging from the Imperial crypt, turn right and walk down the road towards Albertinaplatz with its Memorial against War and Fascism’. Across the road is the Albertina with its controversial modern ‘Diving Board’ roof.
Although not officially part of the Hofburg, the Albertina lies at its apex, and was once a palace belonging to Duke Albert of Saschen-Teschen, the very same Albert who had the cenotaph built for his wife in St Augustine’s Church. No prizes then for guessing where the building gets its name from.
Today, the Albertina is a renowned museum and art gallery, and one I’m afraid to say I didn’t manage to visit. The collection was created by Albert when he and his wife were given a thousand pieces of art by the Austrian ambassador to Venice. Since then, the number of items has grown to include 1 million prints, over 65,000 watercolours and drawings and 70,000 photographs. I don’t know who counts all these works of art, and it got me wondering as to whether they would count them all again if they were one short from the previous count, or just put it down to a light-fingered curator helping himself to supplement his income.
Works of art from some of the world’s greatest modern artists have recently joined the gallery, and there is an ongoing series of exhibitions, and if that’s not enough for you, then it’s also possible to take a look around the twenty or so restored State Rooms.
There’s no doubt that the Albertina would be on my list of places to visit if ever I were to return to Vienna, but as I said at the beginning, there are so many reasons to visit this fabulous city, and just around the corner is the Ringstrasse – the subject of my next Vienna post.
POSTED – JULY 2022
Originally posted 2022-07-26 12:28:31.
This is some conclusion to parts one and two. So much to see–all right there’s the diving board….-but put that aside and it is just amazing the size of it all. you did say that in the first part but it takes to this bit to really see it. I might steer clear of the horses, having once been asked in the wilds of Yorkshire to help some woman. Let’s just say that when she asked for help to get on this horse she’d walked for miles with, she should have picked someone else.
Don’t keep us in suspense. What happened?
Lol…. well we’d been walking through the Ampleforth Estate to get to some small villages when out of nowhere–and we were in nowhere–this woman appears running along side this bloody great beast of a horse she was holding onto for dear life, with some other woman in tow who was already on a horse, but showed no signs of getting off to help, although they were on their last yard of track. Anyway, in passing despite the fact the only horse I was ever on was a donkey at the seaside and where I grew up, any horse brought home from the local was not for riding, she begged me for help. The Mr now’s, dad used to at least bet on the cuddies. As I saw the day the Clavers’e cast manhandled the lead onto this Clydesdale so he could lead the Dundee Festival parade, up close and personal horses are massive. But despite this and seeing the Mr backing off, I did step up and took the reins as if I did this all the time–fear is a wonderful motivator so is not looking stupid– and I saw that she had obvi jerked the pair thing’s head that much, she’d cut its mouth, so no wonder it was not letting her on. Anyway the Mr was astonished that the next thing I was giving its poor head a stroke and whispering away– he was not the only one–like I explained fear and not wanting to look stupid are a wonderful motivator,. I was in one kick and I’m dead here, territory, the way this thing is chomping about and whinnying. Anyway the horse let her on and she and her mate went on their way thinking I was some kind of horse expert. She had not ridden for years apparently and she had walked from the stables. Right enough we walked that way on a later trip and she had walked miles, ran rather. But honestly it was bizarre, the Mr still thinks it was hysterical and I would never ever want to be near a horse again.
That’s some tale, but it goes to prove that you have more talent than you realise.
Lol…. The talent not to end up getting dragged across an overgrown field, which i could see coming next…
Or running alongside like she’d done for four miles…
You’ll be riding in the Grand National next 🙂
Now I have that song…talk to the animals stuck in me head.
🐎 🐎
You’re spoiled for choice here, aren’t you? 🙂 So much to see and do, and such a variety! I knew about the Spanish Riding School but the Winter one looks to be the perfect alternative, and I never need any excuse to get close to those magnificent animals.
I’ve never seen a memorial anything like that of Maria Christina’s – if I was her I wouldn’t know whether to be flattered or offended! Similarly, I know some royal marriages were conducted by proxy – bizarre as the concept is – but if I was Elizabeth of Bavaria and my fiance couldn’t be bothered to make the journey all the way from next door I don’t think I’d have said ‘I do’!
And thanks for reintroducing me to Enigma. I had that album many years ago and I always thought their sound was unique and particularly atmospheric. Another great read (and listen!), Malc, and more to add to the ‘to go to’ list. 🙂
Thank you Alli. There is a lot to see at the Hofburg and when I get around to the Ringstrasse in the next post there is the ‘New Castle’ as well. To be honest though I didn’t have time, nor the inclination, to go into all the various museums there.
As for Enigma, I still have two of their CDs. I thought they were great. Thanks for the email by the way, and I’ll reply before you move. I hope everything’s progressing as it should 😊
Sounds as though you could keep yourself busy for months over there. 🙂 Looking forward to the Ringstrasse then.
I don’t know what happened to my Enigman CDs – come to think of it, I think I had two as well. But they were very good, yes.
As for the move, it depends what you mean by ‘as it should’. If you’re referring to endless waiting, frustrations, useless estate agents and solicitors dragging their heels then yes, it’s going exactly as it should! One day we might get there… 😉
Moving home is a nightmare isn’t it? I hate it. I knew somebody who was in the Royal Navy and he moved over 20 times in about the same number of years. You might not believe it, but he went bald. It will come good in the end Alli, and for what it’s worth, I think what you’re hoping for sounds fantastic. Keep me posted.
Thanks Malc, will do. I certainly hope after all this the move will be worth it, and I’ll definitely keep you posted. As for moving twenty times in as many years, well, no wonder your friend went bald, it’s enough to drive anyone round the twist. Similarly, owing to my dad’s job my parents had to move eight times in ten years, but luckily that was before I was born! 😀
It’s all part of life’s rich tapestry I suppose, and it’s always good to have a new chapter in your life every so often I reckon. Speak soon 😊
That library is to die for! I am suffering some serious book envy!! Thanks for turning me green! Mel
LOL. I’ve always fancied having a library like they’ve got in some of those stately homes. Reading a book next to a roaring log fire with a wee dram in hand during wintertime would be bliss for me 😊
Now you’re talkin’!
A interesting post full of information and great photos, and a touch of humour as well. I don’t like that diving board roof, it’s a complete abomination and totally out of keeping with the lovely buildings round it. I do like the Charles vault though, and the ceiling in the library looks beautiful.
Back in the late 1960s there was a childrens’ tv series, White Horses, which featured some of the Lippizaners, it was foreign made but dubbed into English and had a lovely theme song song by Jacky, an Irish girl. I’d love to see them for real but pointless paying if I wouldn’t be able to take photos.
Thanks Eunice. Sometimes modern works with old, but not always. The glass pyramids outside the Louvre seemed to go down well and the glass dome on top of the Reichstag is a welcome addition in my view – but the diving board I’m not so sure about. I don’t hate it, but I can’t see the point of it.
I don’t remember the TV series of White Horses, but I do remember the song. Life seemed so much simpler back then, and the song reflects that I believe. Not being allowed to take photos is sometimes frustrating for no apparent reason, but in this case, the animals are treated with the utmost reverence, and horses do get easily spooked as you probably know. My daughter had a horse and I was always having to rescue him after he had been spooked by something.
Malc, I honestly think this is one of your best posts. I loved the humor and the photos. Funny that the Lipizzaner horses followed the Vienna Boys Choir because I was just thinking about them and how a city as full of wonderful things, and food/beverages could be identified with a boys choir and trained horses.
Thank you for those lovely words Pat, especially the humour bit because I know my humour doesn’t always travel well, especially across the pond 🙂
Than you, Malc, for your fascinating view of the Hofburg, as always written with a touch of humor and presented with the beautiful photography. I loved the whole post, and I can only wish I could make a reservation and follow in your footsteps.
Joanna
Thank you so much Joanna. I hope you’ll join me when I write my next post on Vienna. There’s plenty more to see.
You took me back with you to a wonderful place, making me remember many small details that I did not remember well. 🙏
Canova’s cenotaph is sublime !
I love jogging your memory Luisa. It makes my day 😊
Thank you from the bottom of my heart, Malc!
💙💙💙💙💙
From mine too 💙
Excellent narrative Malc. Splendid, in your descriptions, filled with complete and important information, and in the way you documented everything with your photography. Those are certainly magnificent monuments! Lovely work indeed my friend!
Thanks for your smashing comments Francesc. I always appreciate them as you well know. I’m not sure if you’ve ever been to Vienna, but it’s a place that you would like I’m sure.
You’re very welcome Malc. It is a place I’ve not visited but would greatly like to, maybe when I return to Europe I will take a little trip. Most certainly I will take your article as reference. Great work!
Thanks Francesc. As you probably realise, I try to link practical advice with a readable format, but I can assure you that I’ve always walked the roads and paths that I talk about, so if you ever print out any of the posts to follow they’ll be accurate unless the road layout has changed before I’m able to update the post.
While I’m on the subject, the information I provide is a combination of personal experience and thorough research from a variety of sources, so that it is as accurate as it can possibly be at the time I write it.
And while I’m at it, you always appreciate my photographs which is appreciated more than you realise. I won’t go into the background of how much work I put into my photography, but suffice it to say, that they are never manipulated beyond what I saw. I’m not a serious photographer and nor am I a serious traveller, but a bit of both if you like. I hope this will tell you a bit more of why I can only post something every couple of weeks or so, and depending what I’m writing about will depend on how long a post will be. There’s a lot more I would like to say, but I’m going to leave it there for now, and thanks for your support. One sincere follower is worth a thousand insincere ones as far as I’m concerned.
Yes, I understand these are your personal experiences and that you’ve walked every street you mention, that is why I find it so valuable. And your photography is always tops my friend. Thank you for the clarification, I appreciate it and as well look forward to your next post. Cheers Malc and all the best.
Thanks Francesc 🙂
Always a pleasure Malc!