Author Archives: Easymalc

Hundertwasser in Vienna

Hundertwasser in Vienna

Vienna is renowned for its classical architecture, but there’s more to the city than palaces, theatres and churches – and there’s no better exponent of a completely different type of architecture than Friedensreich Hundertwasser.

Born Friedrich Stowasser in Vienna in 1928, he changed his name (for reasons best known to himself) to Friedensreich Regentag Dunkelbunt Hundertwasser which translated into English means ‘Peace Realm Rainy Day Darkly Multi-Coloured Hundred Water’ – so now you know. From now on though I’m just going to refer to him as Hundertwasser which sounds more appropriate somehow.

Hundertwasser was an artist and keen environmentalist who used the natural forms of nature as a basis for his art. He was inspired by the likes of Antoni Gaudi and Gustav Klimt, and really disliked the use of straight lines.

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Originally posted 2023-05-18 15:48:19.

Karlskirche

Karlskirche

My previous two posts in Vienna were about Gustav Klimt and the Secession period, and lying between the Secession Building and the Belvedere is Karlskirche. Vienna has no shortage of beautiful churches, but this has to be one of the city’s finest.

Baroque architecture may not be to everyone’s taste, but I defy anybody not to be impressed with Fischer von Erlach the Elder’s  creation. This magnificent building is influenced by a mixture of Greek, Roman, Italian and Austrian classical design, and it all blends together perfectly.

Karlskirche was the brainchild of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI who dedicated the church to Charles Borromeo, the Archbishop of Milan from 1564 until his death in 1584. In 1602 he was beatified by Pope Clement VIII and then canonized in 1610 by Pope Paul V for his stance against the Reformation and his help to the poor and needy, especially during the Plague. He is the Patron Saint of Bishops and his Feast Day is on November 4th.

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Originally posted 2023-04-29 16:37:52.

Vienna’s Belvedere

Vienna's Belvedere

In my previous Vienna post on Gustav Klimt and the Vienna Secession, I promised that the next post was going to be at the Belvedere where Klimt’s The Kiss is on display, and as I’m a man of my word, here we are.

The Belvedere might conjure up somewhere with fabulous views, but think of it more as a palace fit for a prince. The views aren’t bad mind you, but the Belvedere was actually built as a summer residence for Prince Eugene of Savoy who was a highly successful military figure in the army of the Holy Roman Empire. His successes on the battlefield during the hostilities with the Ottoman Empire earned him a lot of respect from the Habsburg rulers, as well as a lot of wealth to go with it – and much of that wealth was spent on The Belvedere.

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Originally posted 2023-02-03 13:34:40.

Gustav Klimt and the Vienna Secession

Gustav Klimt and the Vienna Secession

Vienna is deservedly renowned for its majestic classical and neo-classical architecture, and can best be appreciated by taking a walk along the Ringstrasse where the Museum of Fine Arts is located. The museum is a good example of this type of architecture and everything about the building and its contents is impressive.

Those of you who read my previous post about the museum might remember the marble staircase that leads from the entrance lobby up to the cupola. The first thing you’ll see is Canova’s Theseus Slaying the Centaur, but your eyes will soon be drawn towards the Lunette pictures by Hans Makart at the top of the stairs. What might not be quite so obvious are forty spandrel paintings underneath them by Gustav Klimt, his brother Ernst, and Franz Matsch.

These paintings were created on the narrow sections of wall between the arches and columns: So what? I hear you ask. Well, these paintings are the exact opposite of classicism – and here they are in the most (neo)classical of buildings in the centre of Vienna. Gustav Klimt is the most famous exponent of this style of art which was part of the Secession movement, and is a term that you will constantly come across in Vienna.

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Originally posted 2023-01-14 12:07:16.

Vienna’s Museum of Fine Arts

Vienna's Museum of Fine Arts

 

I know that the title of this post doesn’t sound very exciting, but its official name of the Kunsthistorisches Museum wouldn’t have sounded any better would it? Apart from that, in my recent blog about The Ringstrasse I promised to give you a separate post about this magnificent museum, and so not one to let anyone down, here it is.

People’s interest in museums are bound to be subjective, but if there’s one museum in Vienna I really think you shouldn’t miss, then it has to be this one. By their very nature, museums are not necessarily the most exciting things to talk about, but before you walk away, you might be pleased to learn that I’ll be giving you more pictures than text, and you can always find out more on the ‘interweb’ if you want to know about anything specific.

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Originally posted 2022-12-14 16:15:50.

Vienna’s Ringstrasse

Vienna's Ringstrasse

The Ringstrasse is a grand boulevard that encircles Vienna’s Inner Stadt, and if you take a look at a city centre map, it doesn’t take a lot of imagination to work out that this ring-road is on the site of the old city walls.

The Austrians can thank Richard the Lionheart for the original 13th century protective wall. It wasn’t that he had anything physically to do with it, it was just that on his way back from the Third Crusade he was captured and incarcerated at Durnstein Castle, and it was the ransom money that the English had to cough up, that paid for it to be built.

As well as the wall itself, there was a 500 metre wide glacis, which was an artificial slope devoid of any buildings and vegetation that helped to create an extra barrier against any attack. By the 18th century however, the glacis had become obsolete, and Emperor Joseph started to build streets and walkways lined with trees. As the city expanded and traffic increased, then the city walls themselves were in the way, and in 1857 Emperor Franz Joseph I ordered their demolition and embarked on creating a boulevard that would be a showpiece worthy of the Habsburg Empire.

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Originally posted 2022-12-06 07:40:11.

The Hofburg – Pt 3 What Else to See

The Hofburg - Pt 3 What Else to See

The State Apartments and Treasury may be the logical place to start a tour of the Hofburg, but with so many places to visit in Vienna, you’ll probably want to be economical with both your money and your time looking around the rest of the complex. The Hofburg, as I’ve mentioned before, has grown organically over the centuries, and so I’m going to mention a few other places around the palace that I think you should know about which won’t leave you going around in circles and ‘Hofburg’d out’.

After leaving the Treasury, you should  cross over the Swiss Courtyard and pop into the Court Chapel, not because it’s anything special to look at, but because you may be interested to see where the Vienna Boys Choir perform. It’s seen a fair number of changes since Albert I founded it in 1287, and the latest version was created for Maria Theresa during the 18th century. The world famous choir perform here every Sunday morning, but I warn you, they come at a price.

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Originally posted 2022-07-26 12:28:31.

The Hofburg – Pt 2 The State Apartments and Treasury

The Hofburg - Pt 2 The State Apartments and Treasury

I’m assuming that those of you who are reading this post will realise that following the Hapsburg family isn’t quite the same as following the Borgias. Why I’m mentioning this is because the State Apartments could be a bit underwhelming if you were expecting a lavish opulent palace fit for an emperor, and the reason for this is because the last incumbent, Emperor Franz Joseph, for all his adherence to official pomp and circumstance, lived a rather frugal, not to say mundane lifestyle when he was at home. That doesn’t necessarily mean that you shouldn’t bother to pay his Apartments a visit, as I’ll explain.

If you read my previous post, you will already know that by walking through St. Michael’s Gate in Michaelerplatz we arrive at the spot where the original 13th century castle stood. There’s no medieval castle to be seen in the Old Palace Courtyard today though, because as the Hapsburg dynasty grew in importance, then the castle gradually morphed into a series of buildings that reflected the family’s power.

From those early days as rulers of Austria, the Hapsburgs extended their influence to become Emperors of the Holy Roman Empire which lasted from 1452 until 1806 when they became Emperors of Austria. After ending up on the losing side in World War I the monarchy was abolished altogether and the country became a republic.

The legacy they left behind was a sprawling complex of buildings containing 19 courtyards, 18 wings and 2,600 rooms where almost 5,000 people still work today.

The Old Palace Courtyard (or Burgplatz) is still at the heart of the Hofburg, and its rectangular shape is surrounded by the long Leopold and Chancellery Wings and the Amalienburg and Swiss Wings at either end. It was from here that the Hapsburgs ruled their empires, and although Austria is no longer ruled by a monarchy, the Austrian Federal President still uses the Leopold Wing, and has done since 1946.

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Originally posted 2022-04-10 11:09:49.

The Hofburg – Pt 1 Michaelerplatz

The Hofburg - Pt 1 Michaelerplatz

It’s impossible to come to Vienna and not get caught up in the history of the Hapsburg dynasty, and it’s not difficult to see why. For hundreds of years, right up until the end of World War I, the family ruled over large swathes of Europe, and for the vast majority of that time it was from here in Vienna – mostly at the Hofburg, or Imperial Winter Palace.

As the Hapsburg’s influence around Europe expanded, then so did the Hofburg, and just as the history of their ‘Empire’ isn’t easy to get to grips with, then neither is the layout of the Hofburg, as it’s taken as long to evolve as the dynasty itself.

There are any number of buildings connected to the complex, but Michaelerplatz is as good a place as any to start, because one side of it is dominated by the Hofburg’s Michaelertrakt (St Michael’s Wing), and by walking through Michaelertor (St Michael’s Gate) you arrive in the heart of it all at the Old Palace Courtyard.

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Originally posted 2022-01-21 19:06:43.

From St Stephen’s Cathedral to Vienna’s Imperial Palace

From St Stephen's Cathedral to Vienna's Imperial Palace

This short post gives a brief description about Graben and Kohlmarkt, two streets that connect the Stephansdom (Cathedral) to the Hofburg (Imperial Palace).

Graben is the more interesting of the two, both architecturally and historically. Up until the 12th century it was just a ditch (graben) that marked the city’s western limit, but today this grand pedestrianised street has some lovely buildings of different styles harbouring a selection of fine cafes and upmarket shops.

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Originally posted 2021-12-05 16:45:38.

Stephansplatz and the Stephansdom

Stephansplatz and the Stephansdom

Vienna is a city of around 1.9 million people, famous for its imperial palaces, museums and coffee houses, and although some of its attractions will require a metro or tram ride to one of the city’s other districts, the Inner Stadt has so many things to keep you occupied, that you may well think there’s no need to venture any further, but even though I think that would be a mistake, this is still the best place to start.

The boundary of the Inner Stadt (or Old Town) is more or less the same as the famous Ringstrasse: This Ring Road was constructed during the 19th century over the top of the city’s medieval fortifications, and in 2001 the whole area inside the Ringstrasse was added to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites.

At the heart of the Inner Stadt, and therefore the whole city, stands the Stephansdom, so where better to start a tour of this fabulous city than at its most famous landmark?

The Stephansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral) stands in the centre of Stephansplatz, and due to heavy bombing during WWII, the square has few buildings left of any real merit. Apart from the church of course, there is one building that you can’t fail to miss – the Haas-Haus, a controversial glass and polished stone building completed in 1990. I don’t think people objected to the building as such, more the location. In my opinion (and some of you may disagree) there are examples of where modern architecture sits comfortably alongside the traditional: The glass dome on top of the Reichstag in Berlin and the glass pyramid at the Louvre in Paris are two that immediately spring to mind, but the Haas-Haus doesn’t fall into that category for me I’m afraid.

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Originally posted 2020-10-29 13:08:18.

Zell am See at Christmastime

Zell am See at Christmastime

Anyone who follows my posts will know that they’re basically a collection of travel memories for me, and hopefully some inspiration to others, and so as another Christmas approaches, I thought it was about time I wrote about Zell am See, a fabulous place to spend Christmas if ever there was one.

Zell am See is a well-known ski resort in the Kitzbuhel Alps approximately 50 miles south of Salzburg, but let me tell you straight away that I wasn’t here to go on the piste, but to enjoy Christmas in a winter wonderland – and that’s exactly what it was.

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Originally posted 2025-12-02 17:36:30.

An Innsbruck Winter Gallery

An Innsbruck Winter Gallery

Innsbruck is the capital of the Tyrol, one of Austria’s nine states, and its strategic location on the River Inn has made it an important communications hub since Roman times.

The Hapsburg Emperor Maximilian I made his home here, and to celebrate his wedding to Bianca Maria Storza in 1494, the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) building was constructed in the centre of the Altstadt. Not only is it still here, but it has also become the city’s emblem.

I think it’s fair to say though, that most people don’t come to Innsbruck for its history, but for access to the mountains, especially during wintertime when the Tyrol beckons skiers and winter sports enthusiasts. Twice the city has been home to the Winter Olympics – in 1964 and again in 1976.

Neither me nor my long-suffering wife are into winter sports, but we chose to come here around Christmastime in 2007 to get the best of both worlds, and below is a selection of pictures of the city itself, its local mountain range, the Nordkette, and the nearby ski resort of Seefeld.

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Originally posted 2020-12-03 10:52:56.

Auf wiedersehen Berlin

Auf Wiedersehen Berlin

After 30 posts covering many different locations around Berlin, I’ve decided it was time to say goodbye to this most absorbing city. I haven’t covered everything of course, mainly because my interest in Berlin has always centred around the pivotal role it played in world affairs during the 20th century.

With that in mind, I’ve decided to use this final post to show that there is more to Berlin than those places I’ve covered. From classical architecture to a buzzing nightlife, Berlin has it all, so here are a few things that I’ve omitted, but perhaps shouldn’t have.

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Originally posted 2021-10-11 15:55:09.

The Berlin Festival of Lights

The Berlin Festival of Lights

This week I’ve been sifting through a load of old pictures which is a great exercise in procrastination if ever there was one.

Most of them will never see the light of day outside of our own four walls because they were taken in pre-digital days in the form of prints or transparencies, but here are some that were taken digitally in 2015.

Each October since 2004 Berlin brightens up the Autumn evenings by staging the Festival of Lights.

Landmark buildings and monuments are turned into an amazing light art festival, and although there’s not much to say about them, I’ve decided to include a selection as a gallery for posterity.

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Originally posted 2019-04-18 16:04:55.

The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church – Berlin’s Memorial to Peace

The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church - Berlin's Memorial to Peace

In its attempt to atone for the horrors inflicted on the world by the Nazis, Berlin has gone out of its way to confront its past with monuments of what it sees as reconciliation. For example, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe covers an area in the centre of the city which was used by the Nazi war machine, but it would be easy to forget that the German people also suffered from the horrors of war. The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church in Breitscheidplatz goes some way towards rectifying that by remembering what Berliners had to endure too, but it also acts as a memorial to peace for everyone.

 

THE OLD CHURCH

The memorial actually consists of two churches, and it’s only natural that I start with the original one that was built in memory of Kaiser Wilhelm I. The foundation stone was laid four years after he died on what would have been his 94th birthday (22nd March 1891). This monumental church had a spire that rose to a height of 113m (371ft) and was able to accommodate a congregation of 2,000 people. It also boasted an entrance with some superb mosaics that made a connection between the ‘throne and the altar’.

On the night of 23rd November 1943 allied air raids caused extensive damage to the landmark church including the spire. A post-war assessment of the ruins led to a decision to keep what was left as a symbol of peace, but it took several attempts before the final plan was accepted by the people of Berlin. Initially, it was suggested that what was left of the spire should be torn down, but Berliners saw it as the ‘Heart of Berlin’ and so a compromise was reached where its height was reduced to 71m (233ft), prompting Berliners to call it “Der Hohle Zahn”, meaning The Hollow Tooth

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Originally posted 2021-08-31 13:59:47.

Living Underground in West Berlin

Living Underground in West Berlin

Berlin is a city that has always fascinated me in a way few other cities have: I’ve always thought that history can teach us so much about the way we humans have adapted to our world at different stages of our evolution, and during the 20th century Berlin held centre stage.

My posts on Berlin so far have covered places connected with its historical core, World War II and East Berlin, but very little about the former West Berlin – and so I thought it was about time to rectify that, and so I’m starting off at a museum in Kurfurstendamm, West Berlin’s most famous street.

The Story of Berlin is a privately run attraction which promotes itself as an interactive museum, with 23 rooms describing the history of Berlin. The emphasis is on multimedia technology, and although there were parts of it that I quite enjoyed, I have to say that I was mostly underwhelmed – so why am I bothering to write about it you might wonder.

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Originally posted 2021-07-06 17:01:14.

Karl Marx Allee

Karl Marx Allee

A walk along Karl Marx Allee may not be everybody’s idea of a morning or afternoon out in Berlin, but if the old communist GDR ideology fascinates you as much as it does me, then try and find a gap in your itinerary to come and take a look at this grand East German boulevard.

Stretching almost 2 kilometres from Alexanderplatz to Frankfurter Tor, Karl Marx Allee is 89m (292ft) wide with 8 storey apartment buildings built in the socialist realist style lining both sides of the avenue: It never took on this appearance of course until the road found itself inside the Soviet sector after the end of World War II.

From the 1780s onwards, the road was called the Große Frankfurter Straße and connected Berlin to Frankfurt on the Oder, but on 3rd February 1945 a heavy Soviet air raid reduced it to rubble.

In December 1949 the road was renamed Stalinallee in honour of the incumbent Soviet leader Joseph Stalin, and two years later a 16ft high bronze statue of him was added to the landscape – but there were bigger plans ahead.

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Originally posted 2021-03-28 10:20:10.

The Stasi Headquarters

The Stasi Headquarters

The Ministerium für staatssicherheit, or Stasi for short, was the GDR Ministry of State Security. It operated from 1950 until 1989 with the headquarters located in the Lichtenberg district of Berlin. Its main purpose was to ensure that the population adhered to the strict Marxist-Leninist ideology of the GDR, and in most cases, they conformed – outwardly at least. For those who didn’t there were various methods of making sure that they did.

The blocks of offices connected to the Stasi in Lichtenberg employed around 7,000 people, and the man at the helm for much of this time was Erich Mielke who presided over the organisation from 1957 to 1987.

His headquarters at Ruschestrasse 103 was built in 1960, and if you’re as inquisitive as me, then you might want to come and take a look at where the East German equivalent of the Russian KGB operated from.

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Originally posted 2021-05-20 14:46:58.

Bernauer Strasse and the Berlin Wall Memorial

Bernauer Strasse and the Berlin Wall Memorial

Anyone interested in finding out what life was like living with the Berlin Wall should come to Bernauer Strasse. The street was right on the dividing line between East and West and is now part of the Berlin Wall Memorial, an open-air exhibition (if that’s the right word) which includes a Memorial, Reconciliation Church, Documentation Centre and 80 metres of the Wall.

Before the end of World War II, the whole length of Bernauer Strasse, was the border line between the districts of Wedding and Mitte, and consequently when the city was carved up by the victors at the end of the war, the street became part of the border between East and West Berlin.

Although Wedding found itself in the Western French sector and Mitte in the Eastern Soviet sector, there was no physical barrier between the two, and people were free to travel anywhere within the city. There was however, a vast difference between how people lived in their respective sectors. The Western side of the city was not only more affluent, but it also had luxury shops, restaurants and entertainment venues for people to spend their money in – and East Berliners wanted to spend what cash they had in West Berlin; and as time went on, a steady trickle of people started to leave East Berlin for a better life across the border.

The 1945 Potsdam Agreement had left Berlin wholly located within the German Democratic Republic (GDR) and once people were in West Berlin, they could then travel out of the city – and out of the Eastern Bloc. The trickle of people from East to West turned into a flood and by 1961 it was reckoned that more than 3 million East Germans had left the GDR via Berlin.

To stop this hemorrhaging of people to the West, the GDR authorities decided to build a physical barrier, a barrier which over time became more and more difficult to penetrate – and there was no better example of how the Berlin Wall divided the city than Bernauer Strasse.

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Originally posted 2021-02-25 14:57:10.