Tag Archives: Irish History

Looking for a Glimmer of Sunshine in County Derry

Looking for a Glimmer of Sunshine in County Derry

County Derry/Londonderry is one of the original six counties of Northern Ireland, and although the administrative boundaries have changed since then, County Londonderry still remains. As I’ve mentioned before, Londonderry is still the official name used by the UK government, but as the county now has a majority Catholic population (61.3% in 2021), I’m ging to refer to it as County Derry – at least for the purposes of this post.

I have to admit that my main reason for coming to Derry was to find out why the city played such an important part in The Troubles, but I couldn’t possibly leave without exploring some of the countryside and coastline as well, and so I set aside a full day to drive around the county, with the hope of finding another side to this part of Ulster.

If you’ve been following my previous posts, you couldn’t have failed to notice that the weather’s been pretty grim the whole time I’ve been here, but I was hoping for at least a few rays of sunshine for my drive around the county today, but when I woke up, I didn’t need to draw back the curtains to see what the weather was doing – I could hear it. The rain was beating down so hard that anybody who had half a brain would have called the whole thing off, but a), after breakfast it started to ease off a bit, and b) I haven’t even got half a brain, so with no better option to consider, I drove off into the gloom.

I left the city via the A6 and made my first stop at Burntollet Bridge (see Dirt Beneath the Carpet). At Killaloo I then took the B74 to Claudy where there was a memorial dedicated to 9 innocent victims of an IRA bomb attack in July 1972. I was well aware that I would be passing through places today that would have witnessed atrocities during those turbulent times, but although I wouldn’t go out of my way to avoid them, my mission today was to try and find another side of life here where possible, and so after a brief stop I continued on my way towards Feeny where I took a lonely road across the Sperrin Mountains. I’m sure on a nice day the scenery here would look lovely, but today was not a nice day and it all looked very bleak. Not only was it lonely, it was so dark that it was as if I was experiencing a total eclipse of the sun.

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Originally posted 2025-04-28 15:26:35.

Derry/Londonderry’s West Bank – Pt 2 The Bogside (3) Bloody Sunday

Derry/Londonderry's West Bank - Pt 2 The Bogside (3) Bloody Sunday

WARNING – Some readers may find this article upsetting

In this, my final post about the city of Derry/Londonderry, I’m going to try and explain what led to the terrible events of 30th January 1972 – Bloody Sunday. Of all the articles I’ve written about the Bogside, this one is the most harrowing, but it would be unforgiveable of me not to include it.

If you cast your mind back to the previous post, the Battle of the Bogside led to the British Army being brought into Derry to help keep the peace. No deaths resulted from the battle but there were more than a thousand injuries, many of them serious. The arrival of the army ended the violence in Derry (at least for a while) but the Bogside events had led to trouble in Armagh, Newry, Omagh, and particularly Belfast where six people were killed. One was a Protestant, Four were Catholics shot by the RUC, including a 20 year old British soldier home on leave from Germany, and a 9 year-old boy in his bedroom in the Divis flats.

The other fatality was a man shot by a Loyalist sniper helping people flee their homes in Bombay Street which had been set ablaze. Virtually the whole of the street was destroyed, and in total some 150 homes were burnt out: The army was now drafted in to West Belfast as well. In September, to prevent similar sectarian altercations, a ‘temporary peace line’ was drawn up behind Bombay Street separating the Protestant Shankhill Road and Catholic Falls Road areas – a peace line that is still here today but far more substantial.

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Originally posted 2025-04-23 14:23:34.

Derry/Londonderry’s West Bank – Pt 2 The Bogside (2) Battle Of The Bogside

Derry/Londonderry's West Bank - Pt 2 The Bogside (2) Battle Of The Bogside

WARNING – Some readers may find this article upsetting

My travels have taken me to all sorts of places: Some have been exciting, some a haven of peace and tranquility, and others just fascinating, but then there have been places like Derry – where The Troubles in Northern Ireland began. For those of us who want to try and understand how and why the conflict happened, I’ve embarked on writing several articles to try and make some sense of it all, but please bear in mind that I didn’t write the original script, I’m just recording what happened. I realise that not everyone wants to read topics like this, and so I’ve included a Trigger Warning at the top of the page to warn people about the content before they start reading it.

The Civil Rights marches that I previously discussed, were intended to be peaceful protests by Catholics, not to campaign for a United Ireland, but for equal rights with Protestants, and although Northern Ireland had more protestants than Catholics, in Derry it was the other way round. Both the Duke Street March and the Long March from Belfast ended with violence in the Catholic Bogside, and locals put much of the blame for that onto the Royal Ulster Constabulary (RUC).

After the way those marches ended up, if Catholics in Derry had any doubts before, they now knew for definite where the allegiances of Northern Ireland’s police force lie – and they weren’t going to put up with being the victims any longer; and so to prevent the RUC from entering the Bogside, barricades started to be erected. On a building at the corner of St Columb’s Street (as it was then, Free Derry Corner now), the words “You are now entering Free Derry” were painted to let the RUC know that if they couldn’t respect peaceful protests, then any future attacks on Bogside Catholics would be met with a similar response.

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Originally posted 2025-04-12 10:59:32.

Derry/Londonderry’s West Bank – Pt 2 The Bogside (1) Dirt Beneath the Carpet

Derry/Londonderry's West Bank - Pt 2 The Bogside (1) Dirt Beneath the Carpet

 WARNING – Some readers may find this article upsetting

During my series of posts about Derry/Londonderry, I’ve attempted to show how the city eventually became the spark that lit the fuse for the so-called ‘Troubles’ of Northern Ireland, and although hostilities officially came to an end with the signing of the Good Friday Agreement in 1998, it didn’t necessarily mean that the Protestant and Catholic communities were immediately one big happy family again, and as my previous post about the Creggan and Fountain Estates showed, it was going to take a quite a bit more time for the wounds to heal, and these posts about the Bogside will attempt to show you why.

Those of you who did manage to read that previous post may also remember that Paul, my taxi driver, dropped me off at a café just outside the city walls, which meant that I had to walk up Waterloo Street into The Bogside which, as the name suggests, was once a boggy area lying underneath the ‘Hill of Doire’ where St Columba set up his first monastery, and where St Columba’s Cathedral now stands. As I walked along the pathway under the city walls it was difficult to find a spot which wasn’t covered in broken glass. I’ve been to numerous places where broken glass has been a problem, but this was the worst I’d ever come across, and then it dawned on me why that might have been. On the city walls above is a large wire fence to protect buildings from being petrol bombed, and all this glass could well have been a return compliment. I don’t know for sure of course, but it would have made sense.

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Originally posted 2025-04-02 14:59:31.

Derry/Londonderry’s West Bank – Pt 1 The Creggan and Fountain Estates

Derry/Londonderry's West Bank - Pt 1 The Creggan and Fountain Estates

My previous eight posts about Derry/Londonderry largely concentrated on how the city grew to become an integral part of the Anglo-Irish conflict. Trouble started when the Norman/English were invited over to Ireland to help the King of Leinster regain his throne, but all it achieved was a simmering resentment that periodically boiled over into further hostility. Becoming ever more complex, these hostilities involved not just Ireland and England, but Scotland as well, and to complicate matters even further, not all the Irish involved were Catholic and not all the English/Scottish were Protestant.

The Partition of Ireland in 1921 was supposed to resolve the problem once and for all, but it didn’t, and during the second half of the 20th century ‘The Troubles’ began when a civil rights march in Derry descended into chaos. For the next thirty years Northern Ireland became embroiled in a bitter sectarian war that only officially ended with the Good Friday Agreement of 1998.

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Originally posted 2025-03-26 15:29:29.

Derry and The Troubles – Pt 2 How ‘The Troubles’ Began

Derry and The Troubles - Pt 2 How 'The Troubles' Began

In 1964 Bob Dylan released an album entitled ‘The Times They Are a – Changin’ and they certainly were: During the first half of the 20th century, ordinary working men were expected to die for their country, women were expected to play second fiddle to men, and those who didn’t have white skin could expect nothing except discrimination – but by the end of the Second World War attitudes had started to change.

In the United States, Bob Dylan was just one of many folk singers who were increasingly turning their attention towards writing and singing songs protesting against the Vietnam War and social injustices. These ‘Protest’ songs were closely connected to the Civil Rights Movement, and as Georgia congressman and activist John Lewis said “If it hadn’t been for music, the civil rights movement would have been like a bird without wings”.

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Originally posted 2024-10-12 09:19:52.

Derry and The Troubles – Pt 1 Consequences of the Partition

Derry and The Troubles - Pt 1 Consequences of the Partition

In previous articles, we started out by recounting how Derry was founded, through to why the English were invited into the country and then how eventually they took control. The argument about whether Ireland was Catholic or Protestant appeared to have been settled when the Protestant English king William III defeated the Catholic king, James II at the Battle of the Boyne, but the history of Ireland has never been that simple.

After that historic Battle Ireland continued to be ruled by a succession of Protestant monarchs as part of the United Kingdom and Ireland, but the Irish population as a whole remained mostly Catholic. A succession of failures by the British government to appease Catholic concerns (not least the Great Famine of the mid-19th century) led to calls for the country to break from the union, and by the first part of the 20th century the clamour for change was gathering pace.

As we’ve already seen, things were different in the north of the country where, since the Plantations, most of the Protestants lived – but not everyone who lived in the north were Protestant. To try and keep the majority of both sections of the Irish community happy, the government put forward a plan where six of the nine Ulster counties would be partitioned from the rest of Ireland. The three predominantly Catholic counties that were excluded were Cavan, Monaghan and Donegal. The aim of this plan was to provide independent Home Rule for both Catholics and Protestants, but which at the same time would remain part of the union under British jurisdiction.

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Originally posted 2024-09-28 11:22:26.

Londonderry – The Walled City – Pt 2 The Siege and the Events that led up to it

Londonderry - The Walled City - Pt 2 The Siege and the Events that led up to it

It’s been an age since I wrote Part 1 of this period of Northern Ireland’s history, but it’s now time to pick up where I left off. Before I continue though, I think it’s worth mentioning that, for this article at least, I intend using the name Londonderry rather than Derry, and the reason is that in the Encyclopaedia Britannica, they give this explanation –  “The British government officially refers to the city as Londonderry City. In 1984 the nationalist-controlled Londonderry City Council renamed itself the Derry City Council. In 2007 a British High Court judge ruled that the city’s name could be changed to Derry only through legislation or by Royal prerogative”. That’s that sorted then.

Now, if you’ve got a good memory you may be able to cast your mind back to how England, Scotland and Ireland came to have a new ruler in Oliver Cromwell, a controversial figure if ever there was one. His tactics in helping Thomas Fairfax overthrow King Charles I left his commander-in-chief less than happy and he resigned leaving Cromwell in control. If your memory needs jogging, you can return to the first part of my description of the Walled City here.

After overcoming Irish Catholic and Royalist resistance, Cromwell completed the colonisation of Ireland, which now became part of the Commonwealth of England, Scotland and Ireland. (Wales had already been part of the kingdom when the Tudors became monarchs of both England and Wales). To say that Cromwell wasn’t universally popular with the Catholic Irish would be an understatement, but Protestant Londonderry had supported the Parliamentarians.

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Originally posted 2024-09-11 16:40:24.

Londonderry – The Walled City – Pt 1 Catholics Rebel against the Plantations

Londonderry - The Walled City - Pt 1 Catholics Rebel against the Plantations

My last few posts have been focused on picture galleries where the images took precedence over the written word, but now I’m back in Ireland, the reverse is true. Unfortunately, Ireland is not a destination people go to get a suntan, and if it’s not already raining it’s usually about to. On my trip to Derry/Londonderry, the weather was grimmer than normal which says it all really.

On top of that, I was going to visit parts of the city where, at the time, it wouldn’t have made sense for an Englishman to be flashing an expensive camera around and so I took a cheap option instead. To be fair though, during my time here I only encountered any sort of hostility once, and most of the people I met were respectful. What all this amounts to is that I apologize in advance for the lack of quality pictures that would have shown the city in a much better light.

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Originally posted 2023-04-26 15:40:04.

Is it Derry or Londonderry – Pt 4 The Plantation of Ulster

Is it Derry or Londonderry? - Pt 4 The Plantation of Ulster

The Tudor conquest of Ireland was fraught with difficulties as we found out in Part 3, but there was a new king on the block now and he was determined to learn from his predecessors’ mistakes. It wasn’t that the idea of planting English settlers was a bad one, it was just that the way it was carried out left the newcomers vulnerable to attack, and so King James decided to take the plantation idea a step further.

If you remember, the first plantations were carried out by Queen Mary, an English Catholic, then it was the turn of Queen Elizabeth, an English Protestant, and now King James, a Scottish Protestant has come along to complicate things even further.

The problem the English had in ruling Ireland was exacerbated by the religious upheaval that had been spreading across Europe during the 16th century. Starting in Germany, the Reformation was a movement that had been gaining momentum ever since Martin Luther ‘protested’ about the way the Catholic Church was being run. Throughout the continent, different religious ideas were emerging that challenged the Pope’s authority: We saw it in England when Henry VIII created the Church of England, and Scotland also had its own dissenter in John Knox. Ireland, on the other hand, remained staunchly loyal to the Pope and the Catholic Church.

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Originally posted 2023-02-08 09:47:40.

Is it Derry or Londonderry – Pt 3 The Tudor Plantations and the Flight of the Earls

Is it Derry or Londonderry? - Pt 3 The Tudor Plantations and the Flight of the Earls

In Part 2 we saw how Henry VIII became King of Ireland as well as England, but being the monarch of a country isn’t necessarily the same thing as ruling it, as King Henry found out. The softly, softly approach he started out with ultimately ended with a heavy-handed attempt to enforce the Gaels and Anglo-Irish into accepting English culture and customs.

When his Catholic daughter, Mary, succeeded him the Irish were expecting a change of fortunes, but the new queen turned out to be just as ruthless as her father. She may have followed the religion of her mother Catherine of Aragon, but she was English, and in her quest to Anglicise Ireland, she began planting English settlers – and not just Catholics.

Mary’s Plantation started in 1556 when she ordered the removal of the troublesome O’Moore and O’Connor clans who had been constantly raiding The Pale. After their expulsion, two new counties were formed which she named Queen’s County (now Laois) and King’s County (Offaly). Two new towns were also created – Maryborough (now Portlaoise) and Philipstown (now Daingean), named after her husband, Philip, the King of Spain.

The plantation was not entirely successful for various reasons, not least because the O’Moores and O’Connors didn’t take the situation lying down, but how far she would have gone with the plantation idea is unclear because within two years she had died, and replaced by her half-sister, Elizabeth.

The map below shows how the counties of Ireland look today with Offaly near the centre and Laois just underneath.

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Originally posted 2023-01-24 09:27:37.

Is it Derry or Londonderry? – Pt 2 The English Take Control

Is it Derry or Londonderry? - Pt 2 The English Take Control

In Part 1 of this series, I explained how Derry came into existence and how the English came to be in Ireland, but now, I’m going to turn my attention to how Derry found itself under the rule of the British crown rather than one of an Irish king.

After the 12th century Norman/English invasion of Ireland, English interest and influence gradually diminished, thanks mainly to more pressing engagements at home. It wasn’t until the conclusion of the Battle of the Roses in 1487 that England was able to turn its attention elsewhere – and bringing Ireland completely under English control was on the new Tudor dynasty’s list of things to do.

Early attempts proved unsuccessful, not least because the intervening years had changed the geo-political landscape. By the 15th century, the English were left in control of just one part of Ireland known as The Pale, which covered an area between Dublin and Dundalk, but ‘beyond the Pale’, the rest of the country had largely returned to its Gaelic roots. Not only that, the Anglo-Norman lords (both inside and outside of The Pale) had inter-married with the Gaelic-Irish aristocracy.

The map below shows how Ireland looked before the Tudor dynasty took over in England. Land in green was owned by the native Irish, land in purple by the Anglo-Irish Lords and the land in grey was ‘The Pale’ owned by the English King.

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Originally posted 2023-01-05 08:09:23.

Is it Derry or Londonderry? – Pt 1 How it all Began

Is it Derry or Londonderry? - Pt 1 How it all Began

Discussing Northern Ireland is like stepping into a minefield, but here I go again. I have no Irish family connections, and so in that regard I have no personal interest, and all I knew about Derry/Londonderry before I came here was what I had seen and read in the news reports relating to The Troubles.

Unfortunately, media reports can’t always be relied upon to give a balanced view of things, and so one miserable weekend back in November 2007 I flew into Derry Airport with an open mind and made my way into Stroke City to see if I could unravel some of the reasons behind the conflict.

Stroke City is the nickname given to the city because, depending on a person’s religious or political persuasion (normally amounting to the same thing), it is either known as Derry or Londonderry, and so to keep everyone happy, it is often referred to as Derry/Londonderry – and as I follow the course of the city’s history, things should start to become clearer as to why.

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Originally posted 2022-12-09 16:49:52.